MARCH/APRIL 2013
CRAWFISH SEASON
I’m just back from four days in Santa Clara, California attending an international travel promotion show. It was spectacular—complete with areas devoted to zip lines, mountain climbing, a segway course AND a pool in which to bounce around zipped inside huge clear beach balls!
But the Louisiana entourage was THE hit at the culinary stage. I was part of the group with the Breaux Bridge Crawfish Festival and we cooked a plethora of what else, but crawfish-based dishes. Every time it was announced that we were cooking crawfish, attendees began lining up to taste our sumptuous dishes. On the “menu” was crawfish etouffee, crawfish stuffed bell peppers, crawfish and eggplant fritters with remoulade sauce, crawfish salad in avocado halves, and my personal favorite—crawfish fettuccini.
You had better get your stash of fresh, live crawfish, boiled crawfish, peeled crawfish tails and crawfish puree so you can duplicate our dishes at YOUR house. Don’t forget the French bread!
This can be mixed with rice to make a crawfish jambalaya. I also mixed it with rice and used it as a stuffing for red and green bell peppers.
CRAWFISH STUFFED BELL PEPPERS
- Makes 8 to 10 servings
- 1/4 pound (1 stick) unsalted butter
- 2 cups chopped yellow onions
- 1 cup chopped green bell peppers
- 1/2 cup chopped celery
- 1 pound peeled crawfish tails plus 2 cups crawfish puree
- 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour dissolved in 1/2 cup water
- Salt and cayenne to taste
- 2 tablespoon chopped green onions
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves
Cooked long-grain rice:
Heat the butter over medium heat in a large, heavy pot. Add the onions, bell peppers, and celery, and cook, stirring, until soft and lightly golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the crawfish and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to throw off a little liquid, about 5 minutes. Add the water and flour mixture, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture thickens, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and cayenne. Remove from the heat. Add the green onions and parsley.
Combine the mixture with 3 to 4 cups cooked rice.
For the stuffed peppers:
Cut red and/or green bell peppers in half lengthwise. Remove the seeds. Put the peppers in a shallow baking pan with about ¼ inch water or chicken broth and bake in a 350-degree oven until the peppers are slightly soft. Drain off the liquid in the pan. Spoon the crawfish/rice mixture into the peppers, sprinkle with bread crumbs and return to the oven. Bake until heated through, about 10 minutes. Serve warm.
CRAWFISH FRITTERS
- Makes about 2 dozen
- 1 medium eggplant, peeled and chopped
- 1 ½ teaspoons salt
- ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- ½ cup chopped yellow onions
- ½ pound peeled crawfish tails
- 3 eggs, beaten
- 1 ½ cups whole milk
- 2 teaspoons baking powder
- 3 ¼ cups all-purpose flour
- 4 cups solid vegetable shortening for frying
Seasoning mix (combination of 1/8 each of salt, cayenne, black pepper and garlic powder)
Season the eggplant with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon of the cayenne. Heat the two tablespoons of vegetable oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the eggplant and cook, stirring, until slightly soft, 2 or 3 minutes.
Add the onions and cook stirring, until soft, 3 or 4 minutes. Add the crawfish and cook, stirring, until they throw off some of their liquid, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
In medium mixing bowl, combine the eggs, milk, baking powder, and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon cayenne in a mixing bowl. Add the flour, ¼ cup at a time, beating until the batter is smooth. Add the eggplant and crawfish mixture, and fold to mix.
Heat about 4 fingers of the shortening in a deep pot or electric fryer to 360°F. Drop the batter, a heaping tablespoon at a time, into the hot oil. When the beignets pop to the surface, roll them around in the oil to brown them evenly. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with the seasoning mix and serve immediately with the remoulade sauce for dipping.
Remoulade sauce
- Makes about 2 ½ cups
- ¼ cup Creole mustard
- 2 tablespoons sweet paprika
- 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 1 teaspoon salt
- ½ cup cider vinegar
- Dash of hot sauce
- ½ cup finely chopped celery
- ½ cup finely chopped parsley
- 1 teaspoon minced garlic
- ¼ cup ketchup
- ¼ cup prepared yellow mustard
- 3 eggs, at room temperature
- 1 1/3 cups vegetable oil
- Makes 8 to 10 appetizer portions
- 1/4 cup Creole mustard
- 1/2 cup olive oil
- 1/4 cup rice or red wine vinegar
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
- 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
- 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
- 1 tablespoon ketchup
- 1/8 teaspoon (about 6 dashes) Tabasco sauce
- Zest from 1/2 lemon, finely chopped
- 1 pinch chopped parsley, plus 1 tablespoon chopped in reserve
- 1 tablespoon chopped green onions, plus 2 tablespoons chopped in reserve
- Cracked black pepper to taste
- 1 ½ pounds peel crawfish tails, rinsed
CRAWFISH IN SPICY CREOLE MUSTARD
Combine all of the ingredients (except for the 1 tablespoon chopped parsley and 2 tablespoons chopped green onions) in a mixing bowl and whisk until all is well blended. Refrigerate for 24 hours. It may be stored for up to one week. When ready to use, whisk again. To serve, toss the rinsed crawfish tails in some of the sauce, according to your personal taste. Add the reserved parsley and green onions. This is excellent served atop assorted mixed salad greens, or in tomato or avocado halves.
Whenever I have a crowd over for a crawfish supper, this is THE ONE. It’s very rich, creamy and oh, so delicious.
SHRIMP AND CRAWFISH FETTUCCINI
- 3 sticks butter
- 3 cups chopped onions
- 2 cups chopped green bell peppers
- 1 cup chopped celery
- 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
- 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
- 1 1/2 pounds medium shrimp peeled and deveined
- 1 1/2 pounds peeled crawfish tails
- 2 cups half-and-half
- 1 pound Gruyere or Fontina cheese, cubed
- 2 tablespoons chopped pickled jalapeno peppers
- 2 teaspoons chopped garlic
- Salt and cayenne
- 1 pound fettuccini, cooked and drained
- 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Melt the butter in a heavy, large Dutch oven on medium heat. Add the onions, bell peppers, and celery and cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes, or until they are wilted and lightly golden.
Add the flour and stir to mix. Cook, stirring often, for two to three minutes. Add the parsley, shrimp and crawfish. Cook, stirring often, for about five minutes, or until the shrimp turn pink.
Add the half-and-half, cheese, jalapeno peppers and garlic. Stir until the cheese is completely melted and the mixture thickens, about five minutes. Season to taste with salt and cayenne.
Arrange the fettuccini in a three-quart casserole and pour the seafood mixture evenly over it. Sprinkle the top of the casserole with the Parmesan cheese.
Bake at 350 degrees for about 10 to 15 minutes or until the mixture bubbles.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
By Marcelle Bienvenu
I don’t want to see a King Cake until next Carnival season. I’ve had so many (cream-cheese filled, cinnamon, blueberry, strawberry, and even lemon curd) that even the Carnival colors of gold, green and purple have lost their luster.
I believe I am primed for the season of Lent, although before I know it we’ll be celebrating St. Patrick’s Day and St. Joseph’s Day, which will certainly entail more eating.
Crawfish season is NOW and I’m ready for anything cooked with our Louisiana freshwater crustaceans. And in fact, something just caught my eye on this website – crawfish jelly! I’m ordering some pronto and can’t wait to figure out what to spread it on – toast, biscuits, chunks of cheese???
In the meantime, my taste buds are waiting to be tickled with some of my favorite crawfish dishes. Remember – buy ONLY Louisiana crawfish!
SHRIMP AND CRAWFISH FETTUCCINI
- Makes about 12 servings
- 3 sticks butter
- 3 cups chopped onions
- 2 cups chopped green bell peppers
- 1 cup chopped celery
- 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
- 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
- 1 1/2 pounds medium shrimp peeled and deveined
- 1 1/2 pounds peeled crawfish tails
- 2 cups half-and-half
- 1 pound Velveeta cheese, cubed
- 2 tablespoons chopped pickled jalapeno peppers
- 2 teaspoons chopped garlic
- Salt and cayenne
- 1 pound fettuccini, cooked and drained
- 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Melt the butter in a heavy, large Dutch oven on medium heat. Add the onions, bell peppers, and celery and cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes, or until they are wilted and lightly golden.
Add the flour and stir to mix. Cook, stirring often, for two to three minutes. Add the parsley, shrimp and crawfish. Cook, stirring often, for about five minutes, or until the shrimp turn pink.
Add the half-and-half, cheese, jalapeno peppers and garlic. Stir until the cheese is completely melted and the mixture thickens, about five minutes. Season to taste with salt and cayenne.
Arrange the fettuccini in a three-quart casserole and pour the seafood mixture evenly over it. Sprinkle the top of the casserole with the Parmesan cheese.
Bake at 350 degrees for about 10 minutes or until the mixture bubbles.
CRAWFISH STEW-FAY
- Makes about 8 servings
- 1 stick butter
- 2 pounds peeled crawfish tails
- 2 cups chopped onions
- 1 cup chopped green bell peppers
- 1/2 cup chopped celery
- 1 tablespoon cornstarch
- 1 cup water
- Salt and cayenne
- 2 tablespoons chopped green onions
- 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Heat the butter in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onions, bell peppers, and celery. Cook, stirring often, for about five minutes or until they or wilted.
Add the crawfish tails and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes. Dissolve the cornstarch in the water and add to the mixture. Reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for three to four minutes, or until the mixture thickens slightly. Season with salt and cayenne. Add the green onions and parsley. Serve hot over steamed rice.
CRAWFISH JAMBALAYA
- Makes about 8 servings
- 1 (10 1/2-ounce) can beef consommé
- 1 cup chopped onions
- 1/2 cup chopped green bell peppers
- 1 small fresh jalapeno, seeded and chopped
- 1 (4-ounce) can sliced mushrooms, drained
- 1 stick butter, melted
- 1 pound peeled crawfish tails
- 2 1/2 cups long-grain uncooked rice
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 teaspoon cayenne
Combine all of the ingredients in an eight- to ten-cup rice cooker. Do not add water. Turn on cook cycle. When the cycle is over, keep on the warm cycle for at least 30 minutes. Do not attempt to cook this in a smaller rice cooker.
If these recipes do not satiate your hunger, then by all means stock up with our mini crawfish cakes, crawfish pies and crawfish balls. They’re great for nibbling or to serve as appetizers before your next dinner party.
ST. PATRICK’S DAY
As you can imagine there aren’t many Irishmen to be found around Acadiana. Oh, there are a few O’Briens and O’Malleys who probably ventured forth from New Orleans somewhere along the way, but there are certainly far more Broussards, Oliviers, and Thibodeauxs in these parts. But no matter, you will probably find a band or two of those who have proclaimed themselves Irish, at least for the day, swilling green beer at the local pubs.
I remember the nuns (Sisters of Mercy) pinning green paper shamrocks to the collars of our Catholic school uniforms when I was in grade school. After all, the foundress of the order of Sisters of Mercy was Catherine McAuley from Dublin, Ireland. But it wasn’t until I worked for the Brennan clan at Commander’s Palace in the 1970s did I witness firsthand how to truly celebrate St. Paddy’s Day.
Festivities began in the morning and lasted well into the night. There was green beer, Irish stew and side dishes of cabbage and potatoes. Parades wound through the streets of Uptown, Downtown and of course in the Irish Channel.
But, like a lot of others, I can be Irish for a day and have yet another excuse to party, and right smack dab in the middle of Lent, can you believe.
Forage in your closets for anything green. I turned up some green linen napkins, a couple of green serving platters and did a little research and now I’m ready for a dinner party of six guests, one of whom claims to have some Irish blood running through his veins.
If green beer doesn’t strike your fancy, serve champagne with a platter of Irish smoked salmon, garnished with watercress sprigs and serve with Irish soda bread. Pot pies filled with corned beef and cabbage accompanied by a warm salad of green beans, cucumbers and potatoes followed by lemon mousse and what else but Irish coffee should get us in the spirit. Oh, and don’t forget to wear green. I’ve even coaxed a couple of nieces into making me lots of paper shamrocks which will be wonderful scattered on the white tablecloth.
CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE POT PIES
- Makes 6 servings
- 14 ounces shredded cabbage
- 3 tablespoons butter
- 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 1 cup milk
- 1 cup grated Gruyere cheese
- 1 tablespoon plus 1 ½ teaspoons Creole mustard
- 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
- 1/4 teaspoon dried dill
- Salt and cayenne to taste
- 8 ounces very thinly sliced cooked corn beef, cut into strips
- 2 pounds purchased puff pastry
- 1 egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon cold water for glaze
Cook the cabbage in a large pot of lightly salted boiling water until tender. Drain well. Melt the butter in a heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and stir for three minutes, blending well. Whisk in the milk. Cook until mixture is smooth and very thick, whisking constantly. Gradually mix in the Gruyere. Add the mustard, nutmeg, dill, salt and cayenne. Stir in the corned beef and cabbage. Cool. Divide the filling among six 1-cup ramekins. Cut the puff pastry in half. Roll one piece out on a lightly floured surface to 3/8 inch thickness. Refrigerate the second piece. Cut our three rounds, about 2 ¼ inches larger in diameter than the ramekins. Reserve the scraps. Brush one side of the round pastry with glaze. Arrange the glazed side down on top of the ramekin, pressing firmly against the sides of the ramekin and pushing up slightly at the rim. Do not press down on the rim. Press the pastry to sides of the ramekin with the tines of a fork to seal. Trim the pastry overhang to 3/4 inch. Repeat with remaining two pastry rounds. Roll out the second piece of puff pastry and repeat the process. Brush the top and sides of the pastry with the glaze. Lightly score the top of the pastry without cutting through the pastry. Gather the scraps and roll out to about 3/8 inch thick. Cur out twelve 2-inch shamrocks. Brush with glaze and arrange on baking sheet glaze side up. Place the pies on the baking sheet.
Refrigerate the shamrocks and the pies for at least 30 minutes or up to 6 hours. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Bake in the center of the oven until the pastry is golden brown, about 25 minutes. Transfer the pies to plates and arrange one shamrock on each pie and one on each plate.
WARM SALAD OF GREEN BEANS, CUCUMBERS AND POTATOES
- Makes 6 servings
- 2 medium cucumbers, peeled, halved lengthwise and seeded
- 1 pound green beans, trimmed
- 1 ¼ pounds new, small potatoes
- 6 ounces breakfast bacon, chopped
- 1/3 cup chopped green onions or leeks
- 1/2 cup white wine vinegar
- 1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
- 1/2 cup olive oil
- 1/2 cup vegetable oil
- 3/4 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
Cut the cucumbers crosswise into 1/4-inch slices. Cook the beans in boiling salted water until slightly tender. Drain well. Boil the potatoes, unskinned, until tender.
Fry the bacon in a skillet until crisp and drain on paper towels. Discard all but ¼ cup of the drippings in the skillet. Add the green onions or leeks to the skillet and stir for two to three minutes over medium heat. Whisk in the vinegar and mustard and heat through. Gradually whisk in the olive oil and vegetable oil. Mix in the salt and pepper and remove from heat.
Drain the potatoes and quarter. Mound the potatoes in a large deep salad bowl. Pour about 1/3 of the dressing over the potatoes. Set the skillet with the dressing over low heat. Add the beans and stir until heated through, about one minute. Arrange the beans around the potatoes. Add the cucumbers to the skillet and warm slightly. Arrange the cucumbers around the beans. Pour the remaining dressing over the salad. Sprinkle with the bacon and serve warm.
If my memory serves me correctly, I think this is the Irish coffee recipe from Commander’s Palace.
IRISH COFFEE
- Makes 1 serving
- 1 ounce Irish whiskey
- 1 ½ teaspoon simple syrup
- 6 ounces strong hot black coffee
- Heavy cream
Put the whiskey and syrup in a mug or Irish coffee cup. Stir. Pour in the coffee and top with cream.
Now, where is my green dress!
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013
I barely had the Christmas decorations put away before I had to start getting out flags, beads, and masks in readiness for the Carnival season, which officially began on January 6, also known as Twelfth Night. Mardi Gras is early this year – February 12. We have to pack in a lot of parades and parties into a short time, but not to worry I am already stocked with the makings for gumbo and jambalaya. I also ordered several King Cakes to have on hand for last-minute get-togethers!
While Gumbo and jambalaya are always welcome before or after parades, I think this year I’m also going to add something else to my celebratory menu.
TAMALE PIE
- Makes 6 to 8 servings
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 1 cup chopped onions
- 1 cup chopped bell peppers
- 1 pound lean ground beef
- 1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 1 (10-ounce) package frozen corn, thawed
- 1 cup chopped green olives
- 1 tablespoon ground cumin
- 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
- 2 teaspoons chili powder
- Salt to taste
- Cayenne to taste
- 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
- 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
- 1 tablespoon plus 1 cup yellow cornmeal
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 3 tablespoons sugar
- 2 teaspoons baking powder
- 3 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled slightly
- 3/4 cup milk
- 1/2 cup grated sharp Cheddar
- 1 (4-ounce) can green chili peppers, chopped
Heat the oil in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onions and bell peppers and cook, stirring, until they are soft, about 5 minutes. Add the beef and cook, stirring often, until the beef is no longer pink. Add the tomato sauce, tomato paste, corn, olives, cumin, allspice, chili powder, salt, cayenne, Worcestershire, Tabasco and one tablespoon cornmeal. Stir to mix well.
Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. Spoon the mixture into a 2 1/2-quart casserole. (At this point, the mixture can be refrigerated for one or two days.)
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In a mixing bowl, combine the remaining cup cornmeal, the flour, sugar, baking powder, butter, milk and egg and stir until the batter is combined. Add the cheese and chili peppers. Stir to blend. Drop the batter by large spoonfuls around the edge of the casserole. Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the batter is golden. Serve immediately.
This colorful salad is one that I think pairs well with the tamale pie.
AVOCADO AND RED ONION SALAD
- Makes 6 to 8 servings
- 3 medium, ripe avocados, peeled and sliced
- 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
- 1 cup thinly sliced red onions
- 2 teaspoons chopped fresh cilantro or parsley
- 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
- 2 teaspoons Creole or Dijon-style mustard
- 3/4 cup olive oil
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped red onions
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
In a salad bowl, toss the avocados with the lime juice. Add the sliced onions and parsley. In a small jar combine the vinegar, mustard, olive oil, chopped red onions, salt and pepper. Put the cap on the jar and shake well for about 30 seconds. Add the dressing to the avocado and onion mixture. Toss to mix. Serve immediately or chill for about 30 minutes.
To cool down the mouth, what could be better than a caramel cream custard. Here’s my version.
BURNT CREAM
- Makes 6 to 8 servings
- 8 egg yolks
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 quart heavy cream
- 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Combine the egg yolks and 1/2 cup sugar in a mixing bowl and beat for three to four minutes, or until the mixture is thick and pale yellow. Heat the cream in a heavy saucepan until small bubbles begin to form around the edges. Do not boil. Pour the cream in a slowly stream into the egg mixture, beating constantly. Add the vanilla. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a baking dish.
Place the dish in a shallow pan and add boiling water into the second pan so that the water comes halfway up the sides of the custard dish. Bake for 45 minutes or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove from the oven and cool completely. Refrigerate for at least four hours before serving. About two hours before serving set the oven broiler to its highest temperature. Sprinkle the top of the custard with the remaining 1/2 cup sugar. Coat the surface as evenly as possible. Slide the dish under the broiler about three inches from the heat. Cook for four to five minutes or until the sugar forms a crust over the cream. Watch carefully so that it doesn’t burn. Cool the cream again and refrigerate for a couple of hours before serving.
Make sure you mark your calendar NOW. Valentine’s Day is two days AFTER Mardi Gras, so you don’t want to forget your honey, right? After the hectic season of Carnival, perhaps Valentine’s Day this year can be spent quietly at home.There’s something to be said for a quiet romantic dinner à deux for Valentine’s Day. Rather than head out to a restaurant, why not prepare your spouse or loved one a simple but elegant meal at home? With a little planning and organization, you can prepare much of the meal in advance.
The location doesn’t have to be in a formal dining room, but if it is, sit next to each other than across from! Or, be a little innovative. Set a small table in front of the fireplace if the weather outside is frightful. A couple I know sometimes have a meal together at a small table in their kitchen in front of a floor-to-ceiling glass wall that overlooks their cozy patio. While the landscape may be a bit short of lush during the winter months, she claims they can watch a full moon rising and the twinkling of the stars in the inky-black sky. Another couple who has an expansive kitchen with an adjoining sitting room makes it cozy by dimming the lights and setting a table there rather than in the dining room.
Lots of candles can set the mood. Do NOT turn on the television unless you plan to watch a romantic movie AFTER dinner.
The meal doesn’t have to be elegant. It can be as simple as a tossed salad, perfectly prepared steak and baked potatoes. Or if you prefer, your favorite pasta dish accompanied by a good bottle of wine, finished off with brandy freezes is perfectly acceptable. But if you want to really have a bash, here’s a menu I favor. Start off with the freshest, coldest raw oysters on the half shell drizzled with fresh lemon juice and enjoyed with chilled champagne. Follow with this salad.
MIXED GREENS WITH WALNUTS AND ROQUEFORT
- Makes 2 servings
- 1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
- 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
- 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
- 1/8 teaspoon salt
- 3 tablespoons virgin olive oil
- 2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley leaves
- Fresh ground black pepper to taste
- 3 cups mixed salad greens, such as arugula, radicchio, chicory and red leaf lettuce
- 1/3 cup crumbled Roquefort cheese
Preheat the oven to 275 degrees. Spread the walnuts on a baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes or until fragrant and golden. Let cool.
In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, mustard and salt. Gradually whisk in the olive oil. Add the parsley and season with pepper.
In a large bowl, toss the salad greens with the roasted walnuts, Roquefort and the dressing. Divide the salad into two equal portions and serve on salad plates.
For a change of pace from beef, I like lamb. Use the best you can find. Have the butcher trim the rack, remove the chine bone and french the rib bones. I don’t think it needs a sauce of any kind, but a dab of hollandaise sauce would be nice. A Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot goes nicely with this dish.
RACK OF LAMB WITH ROSEMARY AND MUSTARD
- Makes 2 servings
- 2 teaspoons olive oil
- 1 trimmed rack of lamb, about 1 1/2 pounds
- 1 cup dried fine bread crumbs
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves
- 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1 tablespoon Creole or whole-grain mustard
- 2 tablespoons roasted garlic puree (recipe follows)
In a heavy large skillet, heat the olive oil over high heat. Add the lamb and cook, turning, until it is browned all over, about two minutes. Remove from the skillet and let cool.
In a small bowl, toss the bread crumbs with the parsley, one teaspoon of the rosemary and the pepper.
In another bowl, combine the remaining teaspoon rosemary with the mustard and garlic puree. Spread the mixture evenly over the lamb. Pat the seasoned bread crumbs onto the mustard coating. (The lamb can be prepared to this point up to eight hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate until two hours before roasting.)
Preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Place the lamb on a rack set over a shallow roasting pan. Put the lamb in the center of the oven and immediately reduce the heat to 450 degrees. Roast for about 20 minutes, or until a meat thermometer inserted into the center registers 120 degrees for medium-rare. Remove from the oven, cover loosely with aluminum foil and let rest in a warm place for about 10 minutes. Carve the lamb just before serving by slicing between the ribs.
Make the garlic puree ahead of time. It can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.
ROASTED GARLIC PUREE
- 2 large heads of garlic (about 1/2 pound)
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut the head of garlic in half horizontally. Place in the center of a square of aluminum foil, then season with the salt and pepper and drizzle with the olive oil. Gather the ends of the foil together to make a pouch. Place on a baking sheet and bake until the cloves are soft, about one hour. Remove and let cool.
Using your thumb and forefinger pinch the flesh out of the skin and put in a blender or food processor. Pulse several times to make a paste. Makes about 1/4 cup.
Vegetable accompaniments can be poached green beans or fresh asparagus. I happen to like spinach with lamb.
SPINACH WITH PERNOD
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 1 teaspoon olive oil
- 1 tablespoon chopped shallots
- 4 cups fresh spinach leaves, cleaned
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
- 1 tablespoon Pernod
Heat the butter and olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and stir for 30 seconds. Add the spinach and cover. Cook until wilted, two to three minutes. Add the salt, pepper and Pernod. Cook, uncovered, for 30 seconds. Remove from heat and serve. Makes 2 servings.
For dessert, serve chocolate mousse or brandy whipped with vanilla ice cream and a little heavy cream.
November/December 2012
Now that Halloween is behind us, we move on to Thanksgiving and Christmas. My family is already planning the menus for the holiday dinners.
This Thanksgiving, the Bienvenu/Landry group (about 40 of us) is heading to the Atchafalaya Basin for a day at “the camp.” Since we have to get to the camp by boat, the teenagers are working out a ferry schedule. Two boats will carry the food. And from what I can understand, downed tree limbs (compliments of Hurricane Isaac) have been chopped up for a huge bonfire.
The menu, well I’m already stuffed just reading what’s going to be cooking on butane burners, grills, barbecue pits and on stove tops.
Here is the menu so far:
First, we have to have appetizers to munch while we sip on a couple of brews or Old Fashions. I’m contributing Natchitoches meat pies as well as several dozen of Cajungrocer’s stuffed breads. Someone is bringing the great Mexican cheesecake and I’m sure there will be lots of assorted chips and dips for the kiddies.
The main meal will consist of three fried turkeys, four turduckens, 4 gallons wild duck and sausage gumbo, a huge stuffed pork roast (Mama’s recipe), rice dressing, candied yams, corn pudding, the ever-present green bean casserole, cornbread and French bread.
Desserts will include too many pies to list here and lots of homemade cookies.
NATCHITOCHES MEAT PIES
Makes 18 to 20 meat pies
- 1 teaspoon solid vegetable shortening
- 1 ½ pounds lean ground beef
- ½ pound lean ground pork
- 1 cup chopped green onions
- 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
- ½ cup chopped celery
- 1 cup chopped bell peppers
- 1 ½ teaspoon salt
- ¼ teaspoon cayenne
- ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
- Vegetable oil for deep-frying
- Dough:
- 4 cups all-purpose flour
- 2 teaspoons salt
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- ½ cup solid vegetable shortening
- 1 egg
- 1 cup milk
Heat the shortening in a heavy pot, preferably black iron over medium heat. Add the beef and pork, and cook, stirring, until all pink has disappeared, 6 to 8 minutes.
Add the green onions, garlic, celery, and bell peppers and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are soft and lightly golden, about 10 minutes. Season with the salt, cayenne and black pepper. Remove from the heat and stir in the flour, mixing well. Remove from the heat and cool.
Make the dough by sifting the dry ingredients into a mixing bowl. Cut in the shortening and incorporate into the mixture. In a small bowl, beat the egg and the milk together. Work the egg-milk mixture gradually into the dry ingredients until a thick dough is formed.
Divide the dough into 18 to 20 equal portions. On a lightly-floured surface, roll the dough pieces into thin rounds. Using a saucer as a guide, trim the dough to make even rounds. Place a heaping tablespoon of the meat mixture slightly off center of the round dough. Fold to make the edges meet and crimp the edges with the tines of a fork.
Deep fry in hot oil until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve immediately.
MEXICAN CHEESECAKE
Makes 16 servings
- 1/4 cup crushed tortilla chips
- 2 tablespoons butter, softened
- 8 ounces cottage cheese
- 24 ounces cream cheese, softened
- 2 eggs
- 8 ounces shredded cheddar cheese
- 1 small can green chilies
- 8 ounces sour cream
- 8 ounces jalapeno cheddar cheese dip
- Chopped tomatoes
- Sliced black olives
- Chopped green onions
Combine the chips and butter and press into the bottom of 9-inch springform pan. Process the cottage cheese, cream cheese, eggs (added one at a time), cheddar cheese and green chilies. Pour into the springform pan and bake for 1 hour at 325 degrees. Remove from the oven. Mix together the sour cream and cheese dip, and spread over the cheesecake. Cool at room temperature for 1 hour. Before serving, sprinkle the top with the tomatoes, black olives and green onions.
POOR AL’S FRIED TURKEY
*You’ll need a butane burner and a large, deep pot (both available on Cajungrocer’s website)
Each turkey will serve about 10 to 12
- 2 fresh turkeys, each about 10 to 12 pounds
- 1 large yellow onion, minced
- 8 garlic cloves, peeled
- ½ cup chopped peppers (you choice of green bell peppers, fresh jalapenos or mild bananas, or a combination of all three)
- ¼ cup salt
- ¼ cup cayenne
- About 10 gallons peanut oil
Clean the turkeys and rinse them with cool water. Leave the skin flap at the neck intact.
In a small mixing bowl, combine the onion, whole garlic, peppers, and half each of the salt and cayenne.
With a sharp boning knife, make slits in the breast and upper thighs of the turkeys and stuff this mixture into the slits with your fingers. (You may want to use plastic gloves for this.) Pack it in well. Season the outside of the turkey with the remaining salt and cayenne, rubbing well. Place the turkeys in large plastic bags and refrigerate for 8 to 12 hours.
Remove the turkeys from the refrigerator and set them aside for about 30 minutes. Pour enough of the oil to fill the pot about three-fourths full. Turn on the heat. The oil should be 350? to 360?F. Grab the turkey by the neck flap and gently and carefully submerge it into the hot oil. Be careful as the hot grease may overflow and splatter. Cover the pot. Turn the turkey every 10 minutes, using the long-handled forks. It will take 45 minutes to 1 hour to cook each turkey. When the legs begin to spread open and the internal temperature reaches 170? to 180?F on an instant-read meat thermometer the turkey is done.
Carefully lift the basket out of the hot oil. You can insert a broomstick through the handles and have two strong people lift the basket out of the pot. Using the long-handled fork, transfer the turkey to a large brown paper bag and let stand for about 15 minutes before removing to carve.
Repeat the process for the second turkey.
MAMA’S STUFFED PORK ROAST
Makes 12 to 14 servings
- One 10 to 12 pound fresh ham shank
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 1 large green bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped
- 10 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 3 teaspoons salt
- 3 teaspoons cayenne pepper
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- Vegetable oil
- 2 cups water
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
Set the roast on a large cutting board or platter. Combine the onion, bell pepper, garlic, salt, cayenne and black pepper in a small bowl and mix well.
With a sharp boning knife, make several deep slits in the roast spaced several inches apart. Using your index finger, stuff the seasoning mixture into the slits, packing it in firmly. Season the outside of the roast generously with more salt and cayenne pepper. Rub the roast lightly with vegetable oil.
Place the roast in a heavy roasting pan and put it in the oven. When the bottom of the pan begins to sizzle, carefully add the water. Bake the roast until it browns evenly, 30 to 45 minutes.
More water can be added if the pan becomes too dry. This will mix with the roast drippings and make a dark gravy that can be used now for basting the roast, then later to pour over steamed rice.
When the roast is well browned, reduce the heat to 350 degrees, cover, and cook until the juices run clear and the roast is tender, 3 to 4 hours.
Remove from oven and cool slightly before carving.
TURKEY LEFTOVER IDEAS
I usually keep the carcasses left from the fried turkeys to make a broth with which to make what we call a turkey bone gumbo. Use the broth in place of water or stock that you normally use.
BUT, last year I saved the leftover bits and pieces of the turduckerns and use them for a fabulously rich gumbo! Also, these bits and pieces make a rocking poorboy!
NO WASTE, right?!!!
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