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NO BALONEY ON MY BOAT!

Many of my most cherished childhood memories are connected to the water. Many weekends found me and my family at our camp at Catahoula Lake near the levee of the great Atchafalaya Basin. Papa would often take me in his boat to plunk our fishing lines along the banks of the lake in hopes of catching a few bream or sac-a-lait.

But we also spent long weekends at my Uncle George and Aunt Eva’s camp at Cypremort Point on Vermilion Bay. There, crab traps were baited with chicken necks and more often than not we had more than we could eat by the end of the day. Sometimes Papa, Uncle George and I were up before dawn for treks to the Trash Pile, Dry Reef or Marsh Island to try our luck catching redfish or speckled trout.

On these outings, my father always brought along a pound of baloney, sliced white bread, a couple of tins of sardines and a sleeve of crackers for our lunch to be washed down with cold beers or soft drinks.

As I grew older, I came to love sailing on Lake Pontchartrain with friends. I was also lucky enough to join other friends on fishing trips into the Gulf of Mexico. Oh the glory of being on the water!

It was on one such fishing trip that Babs and Richard Grant introduced me to boat food that included ceviche, antipasto platters and pre-prepared sausage bread – nary a baloney sandwich could be found on their Hatteras they called The Sundance.

Since then I’ve been compiling recipes for food that could easily be prepared onboard or fixed ahead of your departure time to store in ice chests. The result of that effort has resulted in a book I have titled NO BALONEY ON MY BOAT, which you can now purchase right here on this website! It’s a small, portable book that’s easily stowed onboard and it gives you some alternatives to baloney sandwiches.

Here are a couple of recipes from the book that might whet your appetite.

MARINATED SHRIMP AND CORN

Makes 2 servings

  • 1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • Salt and cayenne
  • ¾ cup fresh corn (or canned, drained)
  • 1/3 cup olive oil
  • 1/3 cup red wine vinegar
  • 1 ½ tablespoons Creole mustard
  • 1 ½ tablespoon finely chopped green onions
  • 1 ½ tablespoons chopped parsley
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Put the shrimp in a saucepan and cover with water. Season with salt and cayenne (or if you prefer a tablespoon or two of liquid crab and shrimp boil seasoning) and bring to a boil. Boil for two to three minutes and remove from the heat. Let stand for two to three minutes then drain. Set aside.

Steam the corn for three minutes and set aside.

Whisk together the oil, vinegar, mustard, green onions, parsley and black pepper in a small bowl. Combine the shrimp and corn with the marinade mixture and let stand, covered, in the refrigerator for about one hour.

SOUTHERN SAUSAGE CAKE

Makes about 8 servings – freezes well

This can be prepared in advance in a disposable 9×9/2-inch baking tin, and either frozen or refrigerated until time to be served. As it is best slightly warm or at environmental temperature, it’s usually best to take it out ahead of time. It’s a good breakfast item but it certainly is appropriate for a snack or appetizer with cocktails.

  • 1 pound hot bulk sausage
  • ½ cup chopped onions
  • 1 cup chopped red bell peppers
  • 1 cup chopped green bell peppers
  • ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • ½ cup grated Velveeta cheese
  • 1 egg, slightly beaten
  • ¼ teaspoon hot sauce
  • ½ teaspoon Cajun or Creole seasoning (I use Tony Chachere’s)
  • 2 cups Bisquick
  • ¾ cup milk
  • ¼ cup sour cream

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Cook the sausage in a skillet over medium heat. As the sausage begins to brown, add the bell peppers and cook until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and drain of excess fat. Add the cheeses, egg, hot sauce and seasoning. Mix well.

Make a batter with the Bisquick, milk and sour cream in a large mixing bowl. Gently stir in the sausage mixture and spoon into a lightly greased disposable 9×9/2-inch baking tin, spreading evenly.

Bake until browned, 25 to 30 minutes.

Cool before storing in an airtight container to freeze or refrigerate. When ready to serve, cut into squares.

Note: Bisquick is also handy for making biscuits and pancakes. Store it in an airtight container on your vessel.

SUMMER FISH DISHES

And now that summer is just about upon us, I’m sure that many of you will be heading out on fishing trips and I hope you’re lucky enough to bring in some fine catches. And if you want or need some inspiration, here are some recipes for fish of all kinds.

BROILED TROUT WITH LEMON BUTTER

Makes 6 servings

  • 6 trout (or any firm white fish) filets, each about 8 ounces
  • Salt and cayenne, to taste
  • 1 stick butter, melted and clarified
  • 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 3 tablespoons White Wine Worcestershire Sauce
  • 1 medium-size yellow onion, peeled and thinly sliced

Preheat the broiler.

Season the fish with salt and cayenne. Place in a shallow baking dish. Combine the butter, lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce. Pour over the fish. Broil for about five to six minutes, then turn the fish over with a spatula. Scatter the onion slices evenly over the fish and broil for about five or six minutes more. Watch carefully so as not to overcook. The fish is done when it flakes easily with a fork. Serve with the pan juices.

TROUT OR REDFISH ROULADES

Makes 6 servings

  • 6 fillets of trout or redfish, 6 to 8 ounces each
  • 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 4 green onions, finely chopped
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 1/2 pound fresh mushrooms, wiped clean, stemmed and chopped
  • 1 pound shrimp (peeled and deveined) or 1 pound lump crabmeat (picked over for shells and cartilage)
  • 1 teaspoon dried basil leaves
  • Salt, freshly ground black pepper, and cayenne pepper
  • 1 cup chicken broth
  • 1 cup fine dried bread crumbs (more or less as needed)
  • 1/2 pint half-and-half

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Pound the fillets a bit to make them lie flat. Sprinkle with lemon juice and set aside. Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, and mushrooms and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp or crabmeat and basil, and season with salt, black pepper and cayenne. Add ¾ cup of the chicken broth and simmer for 5 minutes.

Add the bread crumbs and stir so that the mixture binds together. Remove from the heat and cool. Place a tablespoon or so of the mixture on top of the fish fillet and roll up like a jelly roll. (You may have to use a toothpick to hold the roll together.)

Place the roulades in a baking pan with the remaining ¼ cup chicken broth and the half-and half. Dot with the remaining butter. Bake until the fish flakes easily with a fork, 20 to 25 minutes.

PAPA’S FRIED CATFISH

Makes 6 to 8 servings

  • 3 pounds catfish fillets
  • Salt and cayenne to taste
  • 3/4 cup yellow cornmeal
  • 1 cup milk
  • 1 1/2 cups vegetable oil
  • 1 medium-size yellow onion, peeled and thinly sliced (separate into rings)
  • Lemon wedges
  • Tartar Sauce

Rinse the catfish in cool water and pat dry. Season the fish generously with salt and cayenne. Combine the flour and cornmeal in a shallow bowl and season with salt and cayenne.

Pour the milk into another shallow dish.

Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet to about 360 degrees. Dip the catfish, two to three at a time, in the milk, then dredge in the cornmeal mixture, tapping off any excess. Let sit for about one minute, then fry (two to three pieces at a time) in the hot oil. Cook for about three minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Scatter several onion rings over the fish as they cook and squeeze lemon juice over them. Repeat the process until all the fish is cooked.

Serve warm with the tartar sauce.


April/May 2011

I’ve been eating so much crawfish, I’m crawling backwards! My husband and I have been on a crawfish mission, checking out some of our favorite, local spots for boiled crawfish, and we have enjoyed them all. For you that live “away” I urge you to get online or on your mobile, and place your order PRONTO with cajungrocer.com. Some people think I’m crazy, but always have a bowl of “dipping” sauce in which to dip my peeled crawfish tails (or boiled shrimp or fried catfish). It’s also good on those boiled potatoes and onions from the crawfish boiling pot! YUM! DIP FOR SEAFOOD Makes about 2 ½ cups
  • 2 cups mayonnaise
  • 1/2 cup ketchup
  • 2 teaspoons prepared horseradish
  • 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
  • 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1/2 teaspoon hot sauce
Combine all of the ingredients in a mixing bowl and whisk well. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator until ready to serve. Last month I gave you a couple of my favorite crawfish recipes, but wait, I have more! When those freshwater crustaceans are in season, I see no reason not to have them as often as possible. CRAWFISH PIZZA Makes about 4 servings
  • 1 large pizza bread crust
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 1/2 cups tomato sauce or commercial pizza sauce
  • 1/4 cup chopped green onions (green part only)
  • 1 pound peeled crawfish tails
  • Salt and cayenne to taste
  • 1/2 pound freshly grated mozarella cheese
  • 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  • 1 tablespoon dried oregano leaves
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, or lightly oil the baking sheet. Place the pizza bread crust on the prepared pan, then spread it evenly with one tablespoon of the olive oil. Spread the tomato sauce evenly over the oil. Set aside. In a skillet over medium heat, heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Add the green onions, the crawfish tails and season with salt and cayenne. Cook, stirring, for about two minutes. Remove from the heat and cool. Spread the crawfish mixture over the tomato sauce, then top with the cheeses. Sprinkle with the oregano. Bake until the cheese melts and the sauce bubbles, about 20 minutes. Cut into wedges to serve. SHRIMP AND CRAWFISH FETTUCCINI Makes about 12 servings
  • 3 sticks butter
  • 3 cups chopped onions
  • 2 cups chopped green bell peppers
  • 1 cup chopped celery
  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
  • 1 1/2 pounds medium shrimp peeled and deveined
  • 1 1/2 pounds peeled crawfish tails
  • 2 cups half-and-half
  • 1 pound Velveeta cheese, cubed
  • 2 tablespoons chopped pickled jalapeno peppers
  • 2 teaspoons chopped garlic
  • Salt and cayenne
  • 1 pound fettuccini, cooked and drained
  • 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Melt the butter in a heavy, large Dutch oven on medium heat. Add the onions, bell peppers, and celery and cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes, or until they are wilted and lightly golden. Add the flour and stir to mix. Cook, stirring often, for two to three minutes. Add the parsley, shrimp and crawfish. Cook, stirring often, for about five minutes, or until the shrimp turn pink. Add the half-and-half, cheese, jalapeno peppers and garlic. Stir until the cheese is completely melted and the mixture thickens, about five minutes. Season to taste with salt and cayenne. Arrange the fettuccini in a three-quart casserole and pour the seafood mixture evenly over it. Sprinkle the top of the casserole with the Parmesan cheese. Bake at 350 degrees for about 10 minutes or until the mixture bubbles. AND MORE SEAFOOD IDEAS Spring is definitely my favorite time of year in Louisiana. The weather is cool and ideal for dining alfresco. My husband and I entertain often on our covered patio that overlooks Bayou Teche, and most of the time we opt for seafood to serve our guests. With luck, friends give us fish from Vermilion Bay or from the Gulf of Mexico, or we take a boat trip to Marsh Island and catch enough shrimp and crabs for all kinds of good things. Be sure and check out what we have here at cajungrocer.com and you too can enjoy great seafood. STUFFED SOFT-SHELL CRABS Makes 6 servings
  • 6 jumbo soft-shell crabs
  • 1 cup chopped green onions
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 1 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage
  • 1 pound small shrimp, peeled and finely chopped
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons cayenne
  • 1/2 teaspoon white pepper
  • 3 cups stale bread crumbs
  • 1/2 pound mushrooms, finely chopped
  • 3 egg yolks
  • 1 (3-ounce) jar diced pimientos
  • Flour for dredging
  • 2 cups buttermilk
  • 4 eggs, beaten
  • 3 cups crackermeal
  • Peanut oil for deep frying
Clean the soft-shell crabs by cutting across the face with a pair of kitchen shears. Remove the eye sockets and the lower mouth. Carefully lift up the apron and remove the gills. Gently rinse with cool water and pat dry. Sauté the green onions, garlic, crabmeat, and shrimp in the wine for several minutes over medium heat. Add 1 teaspoon of the salt, 1/2 teaspoon of the cayenne, 1/4 teaspoon white pepper and bread crumbs. Stir to mix. Add the mushrooms, egg yolks and pimiento. Mix gently. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Chill the stuffing for at least one hour or until firm. Carefully lift the shoulders on each crab and gently press about one tablespoon of the stuffing into this area. Press the shoulders down to hold the stuffing. Be careful not to break off any of the legs of the crabs. Lay the crabs on a baking sheet and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon of salt and 1/2 teaspoon cayenne. Combine the flour with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon cayenne and 1/4 teaspoon white pepper in a shallow bowl. In a mixing bowl combine the buttermilk and the eggs. Whisk to blend. Put the crackermeal in another shallow bowl. Heat the oil to 360 degrees in a deep pot. Dredge the crabs in the seasoned flower, then dip them in the buttermilk mixture. Then dredge them in the crackermeal, making sure that the legs are well breaded. Hold each crab by the body, allowing the legs to dip into the hot oil for a few seconds before dropping the whole crab into the hot oil. Fry the crabs until they float to the surface of the oil and are golden brown. Drain on paper towels. If you want to really show off these crabs, serve them on a mound of seafood jambalaya and top with Creollaise sauce which is made by combining two cups of béarnaise sauce with 2 tablespoons of Creole mustard. CRABMEAT SALAD Makes about 4 servings
  • 1 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 dashes hot sauce
  • 3 tablespoons finely chopped celery
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped green onions
  • 1 tablespoon capers
  • 3 teaspoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves
  • 1/4 cup mayonnaise
  • 2 teaspoons Creole mustard
Combine all of the ingredients in a mixing bowl and mix well. Refrigerate for at least one hour before serving. The salad can be served atop a mound of salad greens, on thick slices of tomatoes, or in an avocado half. It can also be served as an hors d’ouevre, with crackers or toast points.

March/April 2011



The landscape is still a bit drab, but the night air was invigorating. Perhaps a seafood supper would be just the thing to shake off the winter woes. I dug around the freezer and found several packages of shrimp. I made a quick trip to the grocery store and purchased a few ingredients and we were set.

If you don’t have the necessary ingredients, just browse around our website and you should just about everything you need for a seafood dine-around at home. Oh, and don’t forget some crusty French bread!
  • SHRIMP AND TASSO SAUTE
  • Makes 4 servings
  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 1/2 cup chopped yellow onions
  • 1/4 cup chopped red bell peppers
  • 1/4 cup minced celery
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon cayenne
  • 1 teaspoon Tabasco pepper sauce
  • 1 cup chopped tasso
  • 1 1/2 cups sliced mushrooms
  • 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
  • 1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • 1/2 cup shrimp stock
  • 1/3 cup dry white wine
  • 1/4 cup chopped green onions
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions, bell peppers, celery, salt, cayenne, Tabasco and the tasso and sauté over high heat for about 5 minutes, or until wilted and slightly brown. Add the mushrooms, garlic, shrimp, stock and white wine and cook, stirring often, for about 5 minutes. Add the green onions and parsley. Adjust seasonings. Serve over rice or your favorite pasta.
  • GRILLED SHRIMP WITH SMOKED SAUSAGE
  • Makes 4 to 6 servings
  • 24 large shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on
  • 1/2 pound smoked sausage, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon cayenne
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons fresh chopped basil
Thread the shrimp and sausage alternately on skewers. Combine the olive oil, butter, lemon juice, salt, cayenne, black pepper and basil in a small bowl and mix well. Brush the mixture on the shrimp and sausage. Grill over a medium-hot fire for three to four minutes, turn and cook for three to four minutes or until the shrimp turn pink and are firm. Serve with pasta that has been tossed with Parmesan cheese, olive oil and freshly ground black pepper, or on a bed of rice pilaf. This is probably one of my favorite crabmeat recipes.
  • Crabmeat Remick
  • Makes 6 servings
  • 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise
  • 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar
  • 1/2 cup chili sauce
  • 1 teaspoon dry mustard
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1 teaspoon Tabasco pepper sauce
  • Dash of celery salt
  • 1 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage
  • 6 strips bacon, crisply fried
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In a small mixing bowl, combine the mayonnaise, vinegar, chili sauce, dry mustard, lemon juice, paprika, Tabasco, and celery salt. Mix well. Divide the crabmeat evenly into six large ramekins (or twelve small ones). Spoon the sauce generously over the crabmeat and top with the bacon. Bake for 15 minutes, or until the sauce bubbles. If you want to brown the tops, put them under the broiler for one to two minutes.   CRAWFISH TIME Crawfish season is upon us, and it appears it will be a better one than last year. In fact, My mouth is watering for a round of my favorite crawfish recipes. Here are some that you might enjoy this time of year.
  • LASSERRE’S MAGIC CRAWFISH
  • Makes 6 to 8 servings
  • 1 pound peeled crawfish tails
  • 6 tablespoons butter
  • 2 medium onions, chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1/2 green bell pepper, chopped
  • 1 rib celery, chopped
  • 1 (10 3/4-ounce) can cream of shrimp soup
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 1/3 cup dry white wine or dry sherry
  • Salt, cayenne and hot sauce to taste
  • Minced green onions for garnish
In a heavy black iron pot, melt the butter and sauté the onions, garlic, bell peppers, and celery until wilted. Add the crawfish tails and cook for 10 minutes. Add the soup, water, and wine and stir. Simmer for 30 minutes. Add the salt, cayenne and hot sauce and simmer another 10 minutes. Stir in the green onions. Serve over steamed rice.  
  • CRAWFISH JAMBALAYA
  • Makes about 12 servings
  • 2 cups chopped onions
  • 1 cup chopped bell peppers
  • 4 ribs of celery, chopped
  • 6 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 2 cups uncooked long-grain rice
  • 4 cups water or chicken broth
  • 2 pounds peeled crawfish tails
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 1 teaspoon cayenne
  • 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
Cook the onions, bell peppers, and celery in the vegetable oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat until they are transparent, six to eight minutes. Remove the vegetables from the pot and set aside. Add the rice to the pot and stirring constantly, cook until the rice turns golden. Return the vegetables to pot and add the water or broth. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and simmer for about 20 minutes. Stir in the crawfish and seasonings. Cover and cook for an additional 15 minutes. Add a little water if the mixture becomes too dry. This next dish is one that Papa loved. It’s very hardy and can be served over rice. If you add some chicken or seafood broth, it becomes a rich soup.
  • CRAWFISH AND CORN
  • Makes about 10 servings
  • 6 tablespoons butter or olive oil
  • 1 cup chopped onions
  • 1 cup chopped green bell peppers
  • 1 teaspoon minced garlic
  • 1 (10-ounce) can diced tomatoes with chile peppers (like the Ro-tel brand)
  • 2 (16-ounce) cans shoe peg corn (tiny white corn)
  • 1 (8-ounce) can cream-style corn
  • 1 pound peeled crawfish tails
  • Salt and cayenne to taste
Heat the butter or oil in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onions, bell peppers and garlic. Cook, stirring, until translucent, about five minutes. Add the tomatoes with chilies, mashing the tomatoes with the back of a heavy spoon. Cook, stirring, for five minutes. Add the corn and cook for 10 minutes. Add the cream-style corn and crawfish. Season with salt and cayenne. Cover and cook for 10 minutes. Serve hot.

COURIR DU MARDI GRAS



Yep, it’s Carnival time and if you haven’t stocked up on King Cakes, then you better get on it ASAP.

I thought this month I would tell all of you about a tradition in south Louisiana known as “courir du Mardi Gras” which means “the running of Mardi Gras.” It’s a little different kind of celebration than those in New Orleans. Here’s my story.

To most, New Orleans and Mardi Gras is synonymous. After all, where else do you find balls, held just about every night during the Carnival season, and parades, sometimes several a day, snaking through the streets during the last week or so prior to Fat Tuesday? And what about the Wild Tchoupitoulas Tribe of Mardi Gras Indians festooned in a mass of feathers and a constant parade of maskers working themselves into a frenzy as the season comes to an end?

But, if you venture out of The City That Care Forgot, you will find revelers celebrating in a variety of ways. North of the lake, in Madisonville, they parade in boats. In St. Martinville, the occasion warrants une grande boucherie and a zydeco parade. And in and around the prairie towns of Mamou, Eunice and Church Point, northwest of Lafayette, the local folks participate in the courir du Mardi Gras, the running of Mardi Gras.

And cher, this is unlike any other Mardi Gras celebration in the state, well, probably in the world. Although it does share the processional nature of a parade, as a moving celebration, it’s roots are firmly in the medieval ceremonial begging celebration, which featured a performance in anticipation of a donation, kind of like “singing for your supper.”

Mardi Gras begins early in the day when the riders gather at a pre-designated area on horseback, with a contingency of wagons to carry the musicians and their donations along the way. The route the riders take varies from year to year, and is kept secret until the morning of the courir. At that time, the capitaine (easily recognized by his volunimous cape) who carries a flag, announces the route. His followers, attired in rag-tag costumes, often wearing conical hats, and always a mask, are ready for the ride through the countryside, going from house to house begging for chickens, rice, sausage, flour and oil, the ingredients with which to make a communal gumbo at the end of the day. The captain adheres to the tradition of raising a white flag to ask permission for his riders to enter the yard. If permission is granted, the captain lowers his flag and the riders are free to charge the house. There, they dismount to sing and dance for the household. After an appropriate time, the head of the household may bring out a live chicken which he throws into the air for the celebrants to catch on the run. Then the group continues on to the next stop. With any luck, by the end of the day the wagons are filled with everything that is needed for the gumbo.

In Mamou, home of Fred’s Lounge where on any given Saturday one can enjoy a cold beer accompanied by spicy boudin for breakfast while listening to the best in Cajun music, the Mamou Mardi Gras riders have been practicing the annual ritual since the 1950s.

The celebration iss steeped in tradition and they wouldn’t miss it for the world.

When the riders return to town in the afternoon, the streets are packed with people. Over 500 plates of gumbo are served along with potato salad, and of course, there’s a big fais-do-do that goes into the evening.

Then, here, as in New Orleans, the high-spirited good times will roll full speed until midnight, then, at the magic stroke of twelve, by law and by custom, celebrating must end, for Lent has begun.

The traditional fare on Mardi Gras in the rural towns of south Louisiana is chicken and sausage gumbo served with rice and accompanied by potato salad. What more could you ask for, especially if it’s one of those cold, bone-chilling Louisiana winter days.

CHICKEN AND SAUSAGE GUMBO Yield: about 8 servings
  • 1 hen, about 4 to 5 pounds, cut into serving pieces
  • Salt and cayenne to taste
  • 1 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 2 cups chopped onions
  • 1 cup chopped bell peppers
  • 1/2 cup chopped celery
  • 10 cups chicken broth (about)
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1/2 teaspoon thyme
  • 1 pound andouille, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices
  • 1/4 cup chopped green onions
  • 2 tablespoon chopped parsley

Season the hen generously with salt and cayenne. Set aside. In a large Dutch oven, make a roux by combining the oil and flour over medium heat. Stirring constantly, cook for about 30 minutes or until the roux is dark brown. Add the onions, bell peppers and celery and cook for five to 10 minutes, or until they are very soft. Add the broth and stir to blend well. Add the chicken, bay leaves and thyme. Bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, for about two to three hours, or until the chicken is fork-tender. Add the andouille and cook for 30 minutes. Adjust seasonings. Add the green onions and parsley and serve immediately over rice.

 

The favorite accompaniment to this gumbo, especially in south Louisiana, is potato salad. The secret to a good potato salad is that the potatoes should not be mashed, but rather cut into chunks and no other mayonnaise will do but homemade. I personally don’t like anything else but some finely chopped celery and coarsely chopped hard-boiled eggs added to the salad, but if you wish, you can toss in sweet pickle relish, chopped bell peppers and onions, and finely chopped black olives. This mayonnaise can be made in a blender or a food processor.

HOMEMADE MAYONNAISE Yield: about 2 cups
  • 1 egg
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1 1/2 cups vegetable oil (about)
  • Pinch of sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1/4 teaspoon Tabasco *optional

Blend the egg, egg yolk and lemon juice in a blender or food processor for about 30 seconds. With the motor running, slowly add the oil in a steady stream through the feed tube until the mixture becomes thick and creamy. Add the sugar, salt, pepper and Tabasco and pulse several times until well mixed. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before using. Best when used within 24 hours.

 

For those who choose to spend the day on the parade routes in and around Lafayette, the fare is just about anything that can be packed into ice chests or picnic baskets, or prepared in the backyard. It’s nothing for revelers to stop at friends’ homes or place of business to snack in between parades. My appointed round always includes a stop at a friend who offers some of the best crunchy-fried chicken and creamy cole slaw, as well as a place that has cauldrons of homemade chili with which to smother my wiener on a bun.

The secret, according to my friend, to great fried chicken is to deep fry it in lard. But, if you wish, solid vegetable shortening can be substituted.

CRUNCHY-FRIED CHICKEN Yield: 4 servings
  • 4 eggs, beaten
  • 1/4 cup milk
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
  • 1 fryer, about 2 1/2 pounds, cut into serving pieces
  • Seasoned flour:
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon cayenne
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • Lard or solid vegetable shortening for deep frying

Mix together the eggs, milk, water, salt, cayenne, black pepper and garlic powder in a large bowl. Add the chicken and toss to coat evenly. Soak the chicken in the mixture for about one hour in the refrigerator. Mix together the flour, baking powder, cayenne, salt and black pepper in another bowl. Remove the chicken, a couple of pieces at a time, from the egg mixture and shake off any excess. Roll in the seasoned flour and deep fry until golden brown and the chicken pops to the surface. Repeat the process until all of the chicken is cooked. Drain on paper towels.

 

I’m not a big cole slaw fan, but this one is especially good.

CREAMY COLE SLAW Yield: about 8 servings
  • 1 large head of cabbage, cleaned and shredded
  • 1/2 cup grated carrots
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped bell pepper
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped green onions
  • 3 tablespoons chopped parsley
  • 1/2 cup buttermilk
  • 3/4 cup mayonnaise
  • 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon Creole mustard
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt (or more to taste)
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Mix all of the ingredients in a large bowl and toss to coat evenly. Cover and chill for at least one hour before serving.

 

Just about everyone has a favorite chili recipe. I, for one, have several, but I like this one to serve on hot dogs. It makes a lot and can be prepared and frozen ahead of time.

HOT DOG CHILI
  • 1 pound ground chuck
  • 1 pound lean ground pork
  • 1 1/2 cups chopped onions
  • 1/2 cup chopped bell peppers
  • 3 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1 (28-ounce) can plum tomatoes
  • 1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 4 tablespoons chili powder ( or to taste)
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne
  • 1 quart water
  • 3 tablespoons flour dissolved in 1/2 cup water

Brown the ground beef and pork in a large Dutch oven. Add the onions, bell peppers and garlic and cook until wilted, for about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, tomato sauce, seasonings and water. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium low and simmer for about one hour, uncovered, stirring occasionally. Remove any fat that has risen to the surface. Thicken with the flour dissolved in the water.

 

This next recipe is one of my all-time favorites that Mama fixed for us late on many Mardi Gras days years ago when we came home bone-tired from Mardi Gras festivities.

SHRIMP BURGERS Yield: 4 to 6 patties
  • 1 1/2 pounds shrimp, peeled, deveined and chopped
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped onions
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped bell pepper
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped celery
  • 1 beaten egg
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped green onions
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley
  • Flour
  • 1 cup solid vegetable oil for frying

Mix the shrimp, onions, bell pepper and celery with the beaten egg in a mixing bowl. Add the salt, pepper, green onions, parsley and baking powder and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for two hours. Form the mixture into patties the size of a hamburger. Dredge in flour. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat and fry on both sides until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. To serve, spread a toasted hamburger bun with tartar sauce and tuck in the shrimp burger. Best served warm.

 

And now for the final country Mardi Gras treat. This garlic bread with olives can be eaten as a snack or to accompany anything you like.

MEAN GARLIC-OLIVE BREAD Yield: 4 servings
  • 1 poor-boy bread loaf, sliced lengthwise in half
  • 1/2 stick butter, melted
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped Spanish olives
  • Paprika
  • Grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat the oven to 350° F. Brush both halves of the loaf with the melted butter to which the garlic has been added. Sprinkle with the black pepper and lemon juice. Spread the olives evenly on one half. Then sprinkle the olives with paprika and cheese. Top that half with the remaining half. Heat in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes. Slice and serve.


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