JUNE/JULY 2013

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• 6 fillets of trout or redfish, 6 to 8 ounces each
• 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 1/4 cup chopped green onions
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1/2 pound fresh white button mushrooms, wiped clean, stemmed and chopped
• 1 pound small shrimp (peeled and deveined) or 1 pound lump crabmeat (picked over for shells and cartilage)
• 1 teaspoon dried basil leaves
• Salt, freshly ground black pepper, and cayenne pepper
• 1 cup fine dried bread crumbs (more or less as needed)
• 1/2 pint half-and-half

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• 1 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 3 dashes hot sauce
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped celery
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped green onions
• 1 tablespoon drained capers
• 3 teaspoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves
• 1/4 cup mayonnaise
• 2 teaspoons Creole mustard

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• 6 jumbo soft-shell crabs
• 1 cup chopped green onions
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage
• 1 pound small shrimp, peeled and finely chopped
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoons cayenne
• 1/2 teaspoon white pepper
• 3 cups stale bread crumbs
• 1/2 pound mushrooms, finely chopped
• 3 egg yolks
• 1 (3-ounce) jar diced pimientos
• Flour for dredging
• 2 cups buttermilk
• 4 eggs, beaten
• 3 cups cracker meal
• Peanut oil for deep-frying

• 3 tablespoons vegetable shortening
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1½ cups chopped onions
• 1/2 cup chopped green bell peppers
• 1 cup chopped celery
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 (1-pound) can whole tomatoes
• 3/4 cup tomato sauce
• 2 cups uncooked short-grain white rice
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1¼ teaspoons cayenne pepper
• 2½ cups water
• 1 pound medium-size shrimp, peeled and deveined

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• 2 cups béarnaise sauce
• 2 tablespoons Creole mustard

November/December 2012

Now that Halloween is behind us, we move on to Thanksgiving and Christmas. My family is already planning the menus for the holiday dinners.

This Thanksgiving, the Bienvenu/Landry group (about 40 of us) is heading to the Atchafalaya Basin for a day at “the camp.” Since we have to get to the camp by boat, the teenagers are working out a ferry schedule. Two boats will carry the food. And from what I can understand, downed tree limbs (compliments of Hurricane Isaac) have been chopped up for a huge bonfire.

The menu, well I’m already stuffed just reading what’s going to be cooking on butane burners, grills, barbecue pits and on stove tops.

Here is the menu so far:

First, we have to have appetizers to munch while we sip on a couple of brews or Old Fashions. I’m contributing Natchitoches meat pies as well as several dozen of Cajungrocer’s stuffed breads. Someone is bringing the great Mexican cheesecake and I’m sure there will be lots of assorted chips and dips for the kiddies.

The main meal will consist of three fried turkeys, four turduckens, 4 gallons wild duck and sausage gumbo, a huge stuffed pork roast (Mama’s recipe), rice dressing, candied yams, corn pudding, the ever-present green bean casserole, cornbread and French bread.

Desserts will include too many pies to list here and lots of homemade cookies.

NATCHITOCHES MEAT PIES

Makes 18 to 20 meat pies

• 1 teaspoon solid vegetable shortening
• 1 ½ pounds lean ground beef
• ½ pound lean ground pork
• 1 cup chopped green onions
• 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
• ½ cup chopped celery
• 1 cup chopped bell peppers
• 1 ½ teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon cayenne
• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
• Vegetable oil for deep-frying

• Dough:
• 4 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• ½ cup solid vegetable shortening
• 1 egg
• 1 cup milk

Heat the shortening in a heavy pot, preferably black iron over medium heat. Add the beef and pork, and cook, stirring, until all pink has disappeared, 6 to 8 minutes.
Add the green onions, garlic, celery, and bell peppers and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are soft and lightly golden, about 10 minutes. Season with the salt, cayenne and black pepper. Remove from the heat and stir in the flour, mixing well. Remove from the heat and cool. Make the dough by sifting the dry ingredients into a mixing bowl. Cut in the shortening and incorporate into the mixture. In a small bowl, beat the egg and the milk together. Work the egg-milk mixture gradually into the dry ingredients until a thick dough is formed.
Divide the dough into 18 to 20 equal portions. On a lightly-floured surface, roll the dough pieces into thin rounds. Using a saucer as a guide, trim the dough to make even rounds. Place a heaping tablespoon of the meat mixture slightly off center of the round dough. Fold to make the edges meet and crimp the edges with the tines of a fork.
Deep fry in hot oil until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve immediately.

MEXICAN CHEESECAKE

Makes 16 servings

• 1/4 cup crushed tortilla chips
• 2 tablespoons butter, softened
• 8 ounces cottage cheese
• 24 ounces cream cheese, softened
• 2 eggs
• 8 ounces shredded cheddar cheese
• 1 small can green chilies
• 8 ounces sour cream
• 8 ounces jalapeno cheddar cheese dip
• Chopped tomatoes
• Sliced black olives
• Chopped green onions

Combine the chips and butter and press into the bottom of 9-inch springform pan. Process the cottage cheese, cream cheese, eggs (added one at a time), cheddar cheese and green chilies. Pour into the springform pan and bake for 1 hour at 325 degrees. Remove from the oven. Mix together the sour cream and cheese dip, and spread over the cheesecake. Cool at room temperature for 1 hour. Before serving, sprinkle the top with the tomatoes, black olives and green onions.

POOR AL’S FRIED TURKEY

*You’ll need a butane burner and a large, deep pot (both available on Cajungrocer’s website)

Each turkey will serve about 10 to 12

• 2 fresh turkeys, each about 10 to 12 pounds
• 1 large yellow onion, minced
• 8 garlic cloves, peeled
• ½ cup chopped peppers (you choice of green bell peppers, fresh jalapenos or mild bananas, or a combination of all three)
• ¼ cup salt
• ¼ cup cayenne
• About 10 gallons peanut oil

Clean the turkeys and rinse them with cool water. Leave the skin flap at the neck intact.
In a small mixing bowl, combine the onion, whole garlic, peppers, and half each of the salt and cayenne.
With a sharp boning knife, make slits in the breast and upper thighs of the turkeys and stuff this mixture into the slits with your fingers. (You may want to use plastic gloves for this.) Pack it in well. Season the outside of the turkey with the remaining salt and cayenne, rubbing well. Place the turkeys in large plastic bags and refrigerate for 8 to 12 hours.
Remove the turkeys from the refrigerator and set them aside for about 30 minutes. Pour enough of the oil to fill the pot about three-fourths full. Turn on the heat. The oil should be 350? to 360?F. Grab the turkey by the neck flap and gently and carefully submerge it into the hot oil. Be careful as the hot grease may overflow and splatter. Cover the pot. Turn the turkey every 10 minutes, using the long-handled forks. It will take 45 minutes to 1 hour to cook each turkey. When the legs begin to spread open and the internal temperature reaches 170? to 180?F on an instant-read meat thermometer the turkey is done.
Carefully lift the basket out of the hot oil. You can insert a broomstick through the handles and have two strong people lift the basket out of the pot. Using the long-handled fork, transfer the turkey to a large brown paper bag and let stand for about 15 minutes before removing to carve.
Repeat the process for the second turkey.

MAMA’S STUFFED PORK ROAST

Makes 12 to 14 servings

• One 10 to 12 pound fresh ham shank
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 1 large green bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped
• 10 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 3 teaspoons salt
• 3 teaspoons cayenne pepper
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• Vegetable oil
• 2 cups water

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
Set the roast on a large cutting board or platter. Combine the onion, bell pepper, garlic, salt, cayenne and black pepper in a small bowl and mix well.
With a sharp boning knife, make several deep slits in the roast spaced several inches apart. Using your index finger, stuff the seasoning mixture into the slits, packing it in firmly. Season the outside of the roast generously with more salt and cayenne pepper. Rub the roast lightly with vegetable oil.
Place the roast in a heavy roasting pan and put it in the oven. When the bottom of the pan begins to sizzle, carefully add the water. Bake the roast until it browns evenly, 30 to 45 minutes.
More water can be added if the pan becomes too dry. This will mix with the roast drippings and make a dark gravy that can be used now for basting the roast, then later to pour over steamed rice.
When the roast is well browned, reduce the heat to 350 degrees, cover, and cook until the juices run clear and the roast is tender, 3 to 4 hours.
Remove from oven and cool slightly before carving.

TURKEY LEFTOVER IDEAS

I usually keep the carcasses left from the fried turkeys to make a broth with which to make what we call a turkey bone gumbo. Use the broth in place of water or stock that you normally use.
BUT, last year I saved the leftover bits and pieces of the turduckerns and use them for a fabulously rich gumbo! Also, these bits and pieces make a rocking poorboy!

NO WASTE, right?!!!

May/June 2012

Although summer will not officially arrive until June, the pleasantly warm weather is ideal for outdoor dining. Crawfish, Louisiana’s freshwater crustaceans, are in season and plentiful. The bays along coastal Louisiana, as well as the Gulf of Mexico, are teeming with shrimp, crabs, speckled trout, redfish and flounder.
It’s time for fish-fries, seafood boils and other casual, kick-back, leisurely meals.
Let’s begin with crabs. Lump crabmeat is not always necessary to the dish. The jumbo lump or the regular lump, both the most expensive, is what I want when preparing a luxurious salad or when it’s going to be the focal point of the meal. Flake or special white crabmeat is ideal for making crab cakes or to extend lump crabmeat in a recipe. The claw meat, the least expensive, is stringy and usually darkish, but it’s quite flavorful and is ideal for making casseroles and dressings.
If you’re going to splurge on the white, delicate lump crabmeat, by all means prepare this delectable dish that can be served as an appetizer or a main course.

CRABMEAT REMICK
Serves 6 main courses or 12 appetizer servings

• 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise
• 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar
• 1/2 cup chili sauce
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon paprika
• 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
• Dash of celery salt
• 1 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage
• 6 strips bacon, crisply fried

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In a small mixing bowl, combine the mayonnaise, vinegar, chili sauce, dry mustard, lemon juice, paprika, Tabasco, and celery salt. Mix well.
Divide the crabmeat evenly into six large ramekins (or twelve small ones). Spoon the sauce generously over the crabmeat and top with the bacon.
Bake for 15 minutes, or until the sauce bubbles. If you want to brown the tops, put them under the broiler for one to two minutes.
You can use any type of crabmeat for this dish – mix and match if you like.

CRABMEAT CASSEROLE
Makes 4 servings

• 1/2 cup chopped green onions
• 1/2 cup chopped celery
• 1/2 cup chopped bell peppers
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 cup milk
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• Salt and cayenne to taste
• 1/2 pound regular lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage
• 1/2 pound claw meat
• 1/4 cup dried fine bread crumbs
• 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Sauté the green onions, celery, and bell peppers in the butter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Blend in the flour. Slowly add the milk, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick and creamy.
Add the lemon juice and season with salt and cayenne. Gently stir in the crabmeat. Spoon the mixture into a lightly greased baking dish. Top with the bread crumbs and cheese. Bake for 20 minutes or until bubbly and lightly brown on top. If shrimp tickle your taste buds, then by all means boil ‘em up and serve them with tartar sauce, remoulade sauce or whatever sauce makes you happy.

BOILED SHRIMP
Makes about 4 servings

• 1 gallon water
• 1 large lemon, thinly sliced
• 1 large yellow onion, quartered
• 1/4 cup cayenne
• 1 cup salt
• 3 pounds shrimp, heads and shells on

Combine the water, lemon, onion, cayenne and salt in a large, heavy pot. Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the shrimp, bring back to a boil, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Drain and serve hot.

DIPPING SAUCE FOR SEAFOOD

• 2 cups mayonnaise
• 1/2 cup ketchup
• 2 teaspoons prepared horseradish
• 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon hot sauce

Combine all of the ingredients in a mixing bowl and whisk well. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
You can use just about any kind of fish for fish-fries. Fresh-water catfish or your favorite salt-water fish will do.

FRIED FISH
Makes about 4 servings

• 1 pound fish fillets, cut into 1×3-inch strips
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne
• 1 cup milk
• 2 tablespoons yellow mustard
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1/8 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
• 2 cups corn flour
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 2 large yellow onionS, peeled and thinly sliced

Season the fish with the salt, black pepper, and cayenne. Place the strips in a bowl with the milk, mustard, lemon juice, and Tabasco. Cover and refrigerate for about 2 hours. Heat about 3 to 4 inches oil in a large, deep pot or electric fryer to 360 degrees.
Put the corn flour and cornstarch into a brown paper bag. Remove the fish from the marinade, a few pieces at a time, allowing the marinade to drip off. Put the strips in the bag and shake well to coat evenly. Drop the catfish into the hot oil and fry, turning the pieces once or twice, until they pop to the surface and are golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Arrange several slices of the onion over the fried fish and cover with a layer of paper towels. Repeat the process until all the fish is cooked.
You simply must have tartar sauce in which to dip the fried fish.

TANGY TARTAR SAUCE
Makes about 2 cups

• 2 cups mayonnaise
• 2 pods garlic, mashed
• 1 tablespoon sweet pickle relish
• 1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1 teaspoon finely minced onions

Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Cover and chill for 2 hours before serving.
For dessert, a tart lemon pie – a perfect ending to any seafood meal.

MY LEMON PIE
Makes one pie, to serve 6

• 1 1/3 cups sugar
• 6 tablespoons cornstarch
• 2 pinches salt
• 1 1/4 cups boiling water
• 3 eggs, separated
• 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 2 teaspoons grated lemon rind
• 1 pre-baked 9-inch pie shell
• 1 (7-ounce) jar marshmallow creme

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Combine the sugar, cornstarch and a pinch salt in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Gradually add the water. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Cook for one minute, or until the mixture is clear and thickened. Stir a small amount of the hot mixture into beaten egg yolks, then return this mixture to the hot mixture. Cook for about three minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, then add the lemon juice, butter and lemon rind. Pour the mixture into the pie shell.
Beat the egg whites and a pinch salt until soft peaks form. Gradually add the marshmallow cream beating until stiff peaks form. Spread over the filling, sealing to the edge of the crust.
Bake for 12 to 15 minutes or until the meringue is lightly browned. Watch carefully. Remove and cool before serving.

March/April 2012

The season of Lent has arrived. And I’m betting that there are many who partied much too hard during the Carnival season who welcome the season of repentance, prayer and sacrifice with open arms. Well, maybe not open arms, but at least might relish the thought of six weeks of Lent as a time to have a spiritual renewal of the soul, not to mention some recuperation of the body.

In the not too distant past, meals during Lent were not only meatless, they were simple, albeit nourishing, and because there were certain days of fasting, when snacks between meals were forbidden.
Most of the meals prepared during Lent in New Orleans were referred to as Lenten soups or in French, potage maigres. And these soups were simple broths or consommés, flavored with carrots, onions, turnips, beans or peas, cabbage, and parsley. Sometimes a handful of spinach or a potato or two might be added as well.
In rural areas of south Louisiana, the locals made a stew of potatoes and eggs. A roux was made, then water was added along with cubed potatoes. The mixture was seasoned with the usual salt and cayenne, and sometimes eggs were poached in the liquid, or finely chopped hard-boiled eggs were added to give the meager stew some texture.
Of course in the city and in the country there were meals consisting of different types of seafood. Perhaps there was a courtbouillon or bouillabaisse, or a shrimp stew, fried fish, crab soup, and now and then, a crawfish etouffée. I can attest to the fact that I ate, as a child, my fair share of tuna salad sandwiches, butter and sugar sandwiches, fried egg sandwiches grilled cheese sandwiches, and a whole lot of fish sticks accompanied by macaroni and cheese.
Of course these days, they’re a great variety of vegetarian dishes that have come into vogue that are not only delicious, but also nutritious. With all of that said, I usually try to make Lenten dishes a challenge. There is such a wealth of fresh vegetables available year-round in the supermarkets and at local farmers’ markets, no one should be hard pressed to be a bit creative. And of course, we here in south Louisiana have a great wealth of local seafood—shrimp, crabmeat, crawfish, oysters, and fish—to choose from.

So here then are some recipes that might give you some inspiration for your Lenten meals.

BARBECUED SHRIMP
Makes 4 servings

• 6 pounds large shrimp, heads on (don’t peel them)
• 2 sticks butter
• 3/4 cup olive oil
• 1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
• ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder
• 2 teaspoons paprika
• 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1½ teaspoons salt (or to taste)
• 1/2 teaspoon Tabasco® (or more, according to taste)
• 1 tablespoon rosemary leaves
• 1 teaspoon oregano leaves

Rinse the shrimp in cool water and drain. Spread the shrimp in a large shallow baking pan. In a saucepan, melt butter, then add the rest of the ingredients. Mix well. Pour sauce over shrimp and marinate for one hour. Bake at 325 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes. Stir a couple of times with a spatula. Do not overcook. Serve in a soup bowl with lots of hot French bread to sop up the sauce. Be sure to have some trays around on which to put shells and such. Be forewarned – this can only be eaten with your hands and I would advise you not to wear your best outfit since it can get rather messy. I sometimes have plastic bibs for guests or, if nothing else, large napkins to tuck in the collar.





CATAHOULA COURTBOUILLON
Makes 8 servings



• 2/3 cup all-purpose flour
• 2/3 cup vegetable oil
• 2 medium-size onions, chopped
• 1 medium-size green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
• 2 celery ribs, chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, minced (optional)
• 2 cups diced canned tomatoes
• 1 can Ro-tel tomatoes (tomatoes packed with peppers—use the mild version)
• 1 quart warm fish stock or water
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2½ pounds fish (such as redfish, speckled trout or any white-fleshed firm fish) cut into 2-inch chunks.
• 1 bunch green onions (green part only), chopped
• 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley

Combine the flour and oil in a large heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Stirring slowly and constantly make a roux the color of chocolate. Add the onions, bell peppers, celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and Ro-Tel and stir to blend. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the oil forms a thin layer, like paper, over the top of the mixture, about 30 minutes.
Add the fish stock or water, the salt and cayenne and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour. The mixture should be slightly thick. (If the mixture becomes too thick, add more stock or water.) Add the fish, cover and cook (do not stir) until the fish flakes easily with a fork, 10 to 15 minutes. Adjust seasoning if necessary with salt and cayenne.
Add the green onions and parsley, and serve immediately in soup bowls with steamed rice and pass plenty of hot French bread at the table. (Note: I always have a bottle of hot sauce at the table in case guests want to add a little bit of “heat.”)
Shrimp Creole is a dish that I love, but I’ve eaten some really nasty ones through the years. This is a recipe I’ve worked on for a few years and I think you’ll like this version.





SHRIMP CREOLE
Makes 4 to 6 servings



• 4 tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 1/2 cups chopped onions
• 1 cup chopped bell peppers
• 3/4 cup chopped celery
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 cups peeled, chopped fresh tomatoes or 2 cups canned, chopped with their juice
• 1 cup shrimp stock or chicken broth
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne
• 2 pounds medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 2 teaspoons chopped parsley

Combine the butter and the flour in a medium heavy pot over medium heat. Cook, stirring, to make a blond roux, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the onions, bell peppers, celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables are soft and lightly golden, 8 to 10 minutes.
Add the bay leaves, tomatoes, shrimp stock, salt, and cayenne. Simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the shrimp and cook until they turn pink, 3 to 4 minutes.
Remove the bay leaves. Add the parsley and serve over rice.
And for you crabmeat lovers, here is a simple casserole that can be put together quickly and shoved in the oven to bake while you have a cold beer or a glass of wine.