JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

I barely had the Christmas decorations put away before I had to start getting out flags, beads, and masks in readiness for the Carnival season, which officially began on January 6, also known as Twelfth Night. Mardi Gras is early this year – February 12. We have to pack in a lot of parades and parties into a short time, but not to worry I am already stocked with the makings for gumbo and jambalaya. I also ordered several King Cakes to have on hand for last-minute get-togethers!

While Gumbo and jambalaya are always welcome before or after parades, I think this year I’m also going to add something else to my celebratory menu.

Enjoy!

October/November 2012

SOUPS ON!

            I remember Sunday nights many years ago when I often had a sleep-over at my great-aunt Belle. When a cold front rambled through, I remember the rain splattering on the frosty windows and the wind howling through the pecan and oak trees in her backyard. We were warm and toasty in her cozy kitchen, and there was always a big pot of soup simmering on the stove. We often sipped on hot chocolate tinged with a spoonful of strong coffee and I loved the marshmallows that melted in the hot cup.
            Aunt Belle had a repertoire of homemade soups—hearty beef and vegetable, simple oyster and milk, creamy split pea, and a marvelous white soup with bits of ham and sausage. Oh what fun we had putting the soups together, then retiring to the kitchen table to play cards, work on a jig-saw puzzle, or playing “I Spy.” When our pot of soup was done, we made cornbread or biscuits on which we spread lots of fig preserves or Steen’s cane syrup to go with our meal.
            Every now and then when the winter weather sets in, I invite a couple of my great nieces to join me for a bowl of soup on Sunday evenings. It’s a great time to visit with them AND to show them how to make a simple meal of a good soup. I think you’ll enjoy my repertoire of cold-weather soups.

OLD FASHIONED VEGETABLE SOUP
Makes about 6 quarts
2 pounds soup meat or brisket, cut into 2-inch cubes
Salt, black pepper, and cayenne to taste
1 teaspoon dried basil leaves
3 bay leaves
3 quarts beef broth
1 cup chopped onions
2 carrots, chopped
2 ribs celery, chopped
2 cups chopped cabbage
1 cup cut green beans (fresh, frozen or canned)
1 cup baby lima beans (fresh, frozen or canned)
1 medium turnip, peeled and chopped
3 cans whole tomatoes, crushed with their liquid
6 ounces curly vermicelli (optional)
            Season the meat generously with salt, black pepper and cayenne.  Put it, the basil, bay leaves and beef broth in a large soup pot over medium heat.  Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, for about one hour, or until the meat is tender.  Add the onions, carrots, celery, cabbage, beans, turnip, and tomatoes.  Simmer, uncovered, for one hour.  If the mixture becomes too thick, add a little more beef broth or water.  Add the vermicelli if using, and cook for about five minutes.  Adjust the seasonings and skim off any fat that rises to the surface.  Remove the bay leaves before serving.

SPLIT PEA SOUP
Makes 8 to 10 servings
1 pound dried split peas
1 ham bone, or 2 cups cubed ham
3 quarts chicken broth
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup chopped onions
1/2 cup grated carrots
1 teaspoon thyme
2 teaspoons salt (more or less to taste)
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch or two of cayenne
2 bay leaves
1/2 cup dry sherry
            Combine all of the ingredients, except the sherry, in a large Dutch oven.  Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about two hours, stirring occasionally.  If it becomes too thick for your taste, add more broth.  Add the sherry and simmer for 30 minutes.  Remove the bay leaves.  Adjust the seasonings if necessary and serve hot.

OYSTER SOUP
Makes 6 to 8 servings
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 ½ cups chopped yellow onions
1 quart boiling water (or if you prefer a heartier soup use 1 quart warm milk)
4 dozen freshly shucked oysters, drained and oyster liquor reserved
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves
3 tablespoons butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
            Combine the oil and the flour in a large, heavy pot over medium heat.  Stirring slowly and constantly, make a light brown roux.  Add the onions and cook, stirring, until soft, 3 to 4 minutes.  Combine the water (or milk) with the reserved oyster liquor and add slowly to the roux mixture, stirring constantly.   The mixture will thicken slightly.  Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 2 minutes.  Add the oysters, parsley, and butter and simmer until the edges of the oysters curl.  Remove from the heat. 
            Serve warm with crackers or hot French bread.

QUICK AND HEARTY WHITE BEAN SOUP
Makes about 10 servings
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup chopped yellow onions
1/2 cup chopped celery
1/2 pound salt meat or ham pieces, chopped
1/2 pound smoked sausage, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices
4 slices bacon, chopped (optional)
3 cans white beans (I prefer the Trappey’s beans that are creamy)
3 cans water or chicken broth
1 can Ro-tel tomatoes
Salt, black pepper, and cayenne to taste    
            Heat the oil in a large, heavy pot over medium heat.  Add the onions, celery, salt meat or ham, sausage and bacon, if using, and cook, stirring, for about five minutes, or until the onions are soft and golden.
            Add the beans, water or chicken broth, and the tomatoes.  Stir to blend.  Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Season to taste with salt, black pepper and cayenne, but be aware that the salt meat, sausage, and bacon and the tomatoes are salty and peppery.  
            Skim off any oil that has risen to the surface then serve hot. 

CORNBREAD
            Crackers and hot French bread are fine to serve with soup, but you might want to make cornbread to offer for a Sunday night soup dinner.

CHEDDAR CHEESE CORNBREAD
Makes 6 to 8 servings
1 cup buttermilk
1/3 cup corn oil
3 eggs
1 ½ cups white cornmeal
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon baking soda
1 (12-ounce) can whole kernel corn, drained
3 tablespoons half-and-half
1 small onion, chopped
1 small red bell pepper, chopped
1 teaspoon sugar
1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese
            Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.  Butter a 9-inch square baking pan.  Mix together the first three ingredients in a large bowl.
            Combine the cornmeal, baking powder, salt, and baking soda and add to the buttermilk mixture. 
            Stir together the corn and half-and-half and add to the batter.  Mix in the onion, bell pepper and sugar.  Pour half of the batter into the baking pan.  Top with the cheese.  Pour in the remaining batter.  Bake until browned and springy to the touch, about 40 minutes.

MEXICAN CORNBREAD
Makes 6 to 8 servings in the skillet, or 12 muffins
1 cup yellow cornmeal
¼ cup chopped ham or tasso (optional)
2 large eggs, beaten
½ teaspoon baking soda stirred into ¾ cup milk
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon chili powder
1 (16-ounce) can creamed corn
1 cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese
2 fresh jalapeno peppers, seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon minced pimentos
            Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Lightly grease a large iron skillet (or a muffin tin). 
            Combine all of the ingredients in a large bowl.  Mix well.  Pour into the skillet (or muffin tin) and bake until lightly golden, about 40 minutes.

SKILLET CORN BREAD
Makes 6 to 8 servings
2 cups yellow cornmeal
1 cup bleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 large egg, beaten
1 1/2 cups milk
3 tablespoons solid vegetable shortening
            Preheat the oven to 400°F. 
            Combine the cornmeal, flour, salt, sugar, and the baking powder in a large mixing bowl.  Add the egg and milk and mix well, but do not beat.  Heat the shortening in a 10-inch cast-iron or other ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat until almost smoking.  Pour in the batter and cook until the edges begin to turn golden, 3 to 4 minutes.  Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake until golden brown, about 45 minutes.  Remove from the oven and let cool about 5 minutes before serving. 

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2012

IT’S FOOTBALL SEASON

High schools, colleges and the pros are revving up for football season. I am making a list and checking it twice to be sure I have lots of things stashed in the freezer for tailgating or watching the games on television. You too should consider gathering a supply of appetizers and party food for your gatherings as well. Cajungrocer.com offers everything from mini crawfish and shrimp pies, to stuffed mushrooms and stuffed jalapenos, which I call poppers – you know, they can be popped in the mouth AND they give you a good pop of flavor!

Another item that has caught my attention is Randol’s crabmeat stuffing, which I consider quite versatile since it can be used for stuffing everything from fillets of fish to large shrimp. Having the ready-made stuffing can save time and effort, but if you want to make stuffed shrimp from scratch, here is a recipe that you might want to try.

STUFFED SHRIMP

• Makes 48
• Stuffing:
• 2 sticks butter
• 2 cups finely chopped onions
• ½ cup finely chopped celery
• ½ cup finely chopped bell pepper
• 1 ½ pounds crabmeat
• 2 pounds small shrimp, boiled and peeled
• 4 tablespoons chopped green onions
• 4 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
• 1 teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon cayenne
• ¼ teaspoon black pepper
• 2 eggs, well beaten
• 8 tablespoons bread crumbs
• To assemble:
• 4 dozen large shrimp, peeled and butterflied
• 2 beaten eggs
• 1 cup evaporated milk
• ½ cup water
• 1 ½ cup yellow cornmeal
• 1 teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon cayenne
• Oil for deep-frying

Make the stuffing by melting the butter in a large skillet. Saut̩ the onions, celery and bell pepper until transparent. Add the crabmeat, shrimp, green onions, parsley, salt and pepper and cook for two to three minutes, stirring to combine well. Remove from heat and add the eggs and breadcrumbs and mix well. Allow to cool. Place about a tablespoon of the stuffing in the split of the shrimp, molding the stuffing with your fingers. In a small bowl combine the eggs, milk and water and mix well. In another bowl, combine the corn meal, salt and cayenne. Roll the shrimp in the cornmeal, then dip in the egg mixture, then again in the cornmeal. Deep fry for 5 to 6 minutes or until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve warm with tartar sauce Рyou might want to try our tartar sauce (Louisiana Tartar Sauce).

OYSTERS

When September rolls around, I anxiously await the first cold front to blow through so I can dig into some freshly shucked oysters. There’s nothing better in my book, than icy cold oysters dabbed with cocktail sauce washed down with an equally cold brew! But, there are other things I like to do with our Louisiana oysters.

OYSTERS MOSCA

This is made in a small casserole pan but can be adapted to put in oyster shells or small ramekins.

• Makes 4 Servings
• 2 dozen raw oysters; shucked
• 1/2 stick butter
• 4 chopped shallots
• 1 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• 8 artichoke hearts, mashed
• Salt and cayenne to taste
• 1/2 cup Italian-style bread crumbs
• Freshly grated parmesan cheese

Arrange the oysters in a single layer in a baking dish. Heat the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring, until they are just soft, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the lemon juice and season with salt and cayenne.

Spoon the mixture over the oysters and top with mashed artichokes. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs and Parmesan cheese. Bake at 375 degrees until the cheese melts completely, 10 to 15 minutes.

CREAM OF ARTICHOKE AND OYSTERS

• Makes 6 to 8 servings
• 1 stick (8 ounces) butter
• 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
• 3/4 cups chopped onions
• 2 quarts chicken stock
• 2 cups chopped and drained artichoke hearts or bottoms (packed in water)
• 6 ounces heavy cream
• 1 pint (or more freshly shucked oysters), drained (or if you like, add the liquor as well)
• Salt, pepper and Tabasco to taste

In a large saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat and add the flour. Whisk for three to four minutes. Add the onions and cook, stirring, until just clear, about 5 minutes. Slowly add the stock, whisking, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the artichokes. Add the cream and simmer for about five minutes. Add the oysters and simmer until the edges curl, three to four minutes. Season to taste with salt, pepper and Tabasco. Serve hot.

DUCK, ANDOUILLE AND OYSTER GUMBO

Makes about 8 servings
If and when the ducks hunters come in with their limit, make this gumbo, freeze and pull it out for a dinner during the holidays.

• 2 mallards, cleaned and cut into serving pieces
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 3/4 teaspoon cayenne
• 1/4 cup plus 1 cup vegetable oil
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 3 cups chopped onions
• 2 cups chopped bell peppers
• 6 to 8 cups water or chicken stock
• 1 pound andouille, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices
• 2 dozen oysters, shucked, with their liquor
• 3 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley leaves

Season the ducks pieces with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon of the cayenne. Heat 1/4 cup of the oil in a large, heavy pot (preferably black iron) over medium heat. Add the duck pieces and brown, stirring often. Remove the duck and set aside.

To the same pot add the remaining 1 cup vegetable oil and the flour. Stirring constantly for 20 to 25 minutes, make a dark brown roux. Add the onions and bell peppers and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or until they are soft.

Add the water or stock (the amount will depend on how thick or thin you like your gumbo). Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the duck pieces and the remaining 1 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon cayenne. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for about 1 1/2 hours.

Add the andouille and simmer for 30 minutes. Skim off any fat that rises to the surface. Add the oysters and their liquid and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the edges of the oysters curl. Remove from the heat. Add the parsley and serve immediately over steamed rice in gumbo bowls.