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If you haven’t ordered your turducken, then you had better get to it! Your holiday table won’t be complete without one or two! I also highly recommend the qua–duc-ant (quail/duck/pheasant). AND if you have any leftover (which you probably won’t), it can be used to make a gumbo. The combination of the quail, duck and pheasant makes an incredible gumbo – simply use your chicken and sausage gumbo recipe and add chunks of the qua-duc-ant! Better order two or three to stash in your freezer for the upcoming holidays. Also the qua-duc-ant can be sliced to make a magnificent poorboy slathered with Creole mustard.

By Marcelle Bienvenu

Mama loved to end her meal with something sweet, whether it was a simple sugar cookie or a couple of chocolate Kisses. Papa, on the other hand, could gorge himself on an entire box of Heavenly Hash. Sister Edna likes cakes. She will bake one at the drop of a hat and snack on it all day. Brother Henri Clay adores sweets. He never seems to get enough cakes, pies, cookies, candies, ice cream, or whatever sweet concoction anyone comes up with, and for holidays, he relishes in all the desserts. Baby Brother Bruce favors lemon pie and homemade ice cream.

I, thank goodness, rarely crave sweets. When I do, a couple of Oreos, a scoop of vanilla ice cream, or a small Butterfinger will do the trick.

When it comes to holiday feasts, we really blow it out. Henri says to bring it all on, so there is always a great variety.

For years, our Aunt Eva, who was not a terribly good cook but a terrific baker, supplied a four-layered coconut cake that was outstanding for the Thanksgiving feast. Aunt Claudia, the family pie-maker, produced the best-ever apple pie and a pecan pie that was stupendous. Aunt Taye was the candy-maker and her divinity fudge was unsurpassable.

But Aunt Eva has passed on, and we haven’t tasted any of Aunt Claudia’s pies or Aunt Taye’s candies in years, so it’s my generation’s turn to walk in their shoes.

Makes 1 pie to serve 8

This sweet potato pie is usually my offering for the holidays. I ate so many sweet potatoes as a child, I was nicknamed “Patate Douce.”
  • 3 medium-size sweet potatoes (about 1 ¼ pounds)
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
  • ½ cup (packed) light brown sugar
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • ½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground mace
  • Pinch of salt
  • ½ cup evaporated milk
  • Flaky Pie Crust (recipe follows), unbaked
  • Whipped cream
In a medium-size saucepan of boiling water, cook the sweet potatoes until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain, let cool, then peel and mash. You should have about 3 cups.

the oven to 350 degrees. In a medium-size bowl, beat together the butter and brown sugar until creamy. Add the eggs, vanilla, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, nutmeg, allspice, mace and salt. Stir in the mashed sweet potatoes and add the evaporated milk. Beat with an electric mixer until smooth.

Pour the filling into the unbaked pie shell and bake on the bottom rack of the oven until the center is firm, 50 to 60 minutes. Remove and serve warm or at room temperature. Garnish with a dollop of whipped cream.

Makes 1 tart to serve 10

This cranberry tart is also from my repertoire of holiday desserts. I never did like cranberry sauce, but for the past several years, I’ve experimented with fresh cranberries and like the flavor and texture in a dessert such as this one.
  • 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
  • 2 ½ cups to 3 cups sugar
  • 1 ½ sticks cold unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 6 cups fresh cranberries, rinsed, drained and picked over (about two 12-ounce bags)
  • Prebaked Tart Shell (recipe follows)
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a large bowl, combine the flour and 1 ¾ cups of the sugar. Cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Continue cutting until the mixture forms nickel-size clumps that crumb easily.

In a medium-size bowl, combine the remaining ¾ cup sugar (or more if you want it sweeter) with the salt. Add the cranberries and toss to coat well.

Spoon the cranberries into the prebaked tart shell, mounding them slightly in the center. Using your fingers, lightly squeeze pieces of the crumb topping and drop them gently over the berries. Do not press the topping into the fruit.

Bake until the toping is golden brown and the fruit is bubbling around the edges, about 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool on a rack. Unmold the tart and place on a serving platter. Serve at room temperature.

  • 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces
  • 1 ½ teaspoons sugar
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt
Place the flour in a medium-size bowl. Cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. In a small bowl, dissolve the sugar and salt in ¼ cup cold water. Sprinkle over the flour mixture, tossing the mixture until the dough begins to come together.

Turn the dough out onto a flour surface and form it into a ball. Flatten the dough into a disk, wrap it in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough into a large round, 1/8 to ¼ inch thick. Trim to a 13-inch circle. Dust the dough lightly with flour and fold into quarters. Place it with the point in the center, in a 9 ½ to 10-inch tart pan, about one inch deep, with a removable bottom. Open up the pastry and fit it into the pan, folding in the excess to reinforce the sides. Press the pastry against the fluted sides of the pan and trim off any excess dough. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour or overnight.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line the pastry with foil and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until the pastry is almost dry 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the foil and weights, prick the bottom and sides all over with a fork, and continue to bake until the crust is golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes.

Makes 1 pie to serve 8

I’m not sure how Aunt Claudia made her apple pies, but this one comes mighty close to what I remember.

  • 1 ¾ cups all-purpose flour
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1/3 cup vegetable shortening, cut into small pieces
  • 6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
  • 3 to 4 tablespoons ice water
  • 3 pounds tart apples, peeled, cored and cut into ½-inch slices
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • ½ cup heavy cream
To make the crust, place the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Add the shortening and butter and process until the mixture resembles coarse meal. With the machine running, add enough of the ice water through the feed tube for the dough to gather into a ball. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for one hour.

To make the filling, toss the apples, sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cream together.

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Divide the dough in half. Roll out one piece to an 11-inch circle on a lightly floured surface. Line a 9-inch pie plate with the dough, leaving the edge untrimmed.

Spoon the apple filling into the pie shell. Roll out the remaining dough into another 11-inch circle. Carefully place over the top of the pie. Trim and crimp the edges. Any excess dough can be used for decorating the top of the pie if you wish.

Cut four steam vents in the top of the pie.

Bake for 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to 375 degrees and bake for 40 minutes more. Serve warm or at room temperature.

  • 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • ½ cup vegetable shortening
  • 3 to 4 tablespoons ice water
In a mediums-size bowl, mix the flour and salt together. Cut in the shortening until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add three tablespoons water, one tablespoon at a time, stirring lightly with a fork after each addition. Add one more tablespoon of water, if needed, so that the dough holds together. Gather into a bowl and flatten slightly.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough until it is about 1/8-inch thick. Transfer the dough to a 9-inch pie pan and fit it against the bottom and sides without stretching. Trim to ½ inch of the edge, fold the extra dough under and crimp decoratively.


By Marcelle Bienvenu


My duck-hunting friends are getting antsy for the season to arrive. They’ve been busy preparing for what I believe is one of men’s favorite times of the year. Shotguns have been cleaned and oiled, and probably a small fortune has been spent on shells. The duck blinds have been reworked and stand ready for that first cold front to blow in from the west. Decoys have been retrieved from storage to be marked or tagged. Now it’s just a matter of time before they can go forth to their camps, get up before dawn, walk through the wind, rain, and mud, then sit in a wet duck blind. Not my idea of fun.

I too am ready and waiting for the season to begin, only because I enjoy the spoils of the hunt. I am quite fond of a roasted duck or a good sausage and duck gumbo, or duck prepared in any number of ways for that matter.

My nephews have promised me that they will supply me with a few mallards and hopefully, a couple of specklebellies, before the season is over.

And in fact, I have gotten out the book WINGS OF PARADISE: BIRDS OF THE LOUISIANA WETLANDS I co-authored with the late Charlie Hohorst to give me inspiration. Not only does the book feature fantastic photographs of blue wing teal, mallards, pintails and wood ducks as well as just about every kind of goose that flies into the Louisiana marshes, but the book also has a wonderful collection of recipes from our duck-hunting friends.

With this stimulation, I’ve chosen a few that I thought you might enjoy when the ducks are flying!

Here’s to you Charlie, my friend!


Contributed by Benjamin L. Landry, St. Martinville, La.
Ben says this is not only easy, but also awesome, and doesn’t require a whole lot of attention while the ducks are cooking. The sweet potatoes in the cavity will have an incredible flavor as well! Kick back, enjoy a few brews and discuss your hunt while the ducks cook.

Ben and his buddies hunt in a flooded timber area just outside the Atchafalaya Basin.

Makes 4 to 6 servings
  • 4 to 6 teal, dressed, cleaned and patted dry
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • Creole Butter Recipe (Cajun Injector® seasoning mix)
  • 4 to 6 sweet potatoes (whole, uncooked and unpeeled)
  • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 2 medium-size yellow onions, chopped
  • 2 medium-size green bell peppers, seeded and chopped
  • 2 celery ribs, chopped
  • 1 1/2 pounds fresh pork sausage with jalapenos, cut into 3-inch pieces
  • 1 to 1 1/2 cups water or chicken broth
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Rub the teals evenly with the olive oil. Inject each bird with several injections of the Creole Butter Recipe seasoning mix. Stuff the cavity of each teal with a sweet potato and set aside.

Heat the vegetable oil in a large, heavy oven-proof pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the onions, bell peppers and celery, and cook, stirring, until soft and golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat.

With a spoon, move the vegetables to the sides of the pot and arrange the teals in the center of the pot. Arrange the sausage over the top of the birds, add the water or broth, cover the pot and transfer the pot to the oven.

Bake until the teal are fork-tender, about 2 hours. Remove from the oven, let sit for a few minutes before serving.

Serve with rice and hot French bread.


Contributed by Burton E. Cestia, Jr., New Iberia, La.
Burt and his wife, Mary, along with their three children often spent Thanksgiving week at this duck camp near Gueydan when the kids were young.

“We rather roughed it, but it was always a lot of fun. Mary gathered whatever wildflowers were in bloom or used driftwood and branches she found on the property for the centerpiece on the table. We enjoyed roaming around the marshes during the day and marveled at the incredible sunsets, but cooking our Thanksgiving dinner together was always the highlight of our stay. This is one of our favorite duck recipes,” says Burt.

Makes 4 servings
  • 4 teals, dressed, rinsed in cool water and patted dry
  • 1 cup chopped green bell peppers
  • 1 1/2 cups chopped green onions
  • 1 cup chopped celery
  • Cavender’s Greek seasoning mix to taste
  • Tony Chachere’s Original Creole seasoning mix to taste
  • Olive oil
  • 1 1/2 Granny Smith apples, seeded and quartered
  • 1/2 cup raisins
  • 1/2 cups pecan halves
  • 6 carrots, scraped and cut crosswise into 1-inch slices
  • 8 to 10 small new potatoes
  • 1/4 cup chopped green onions, for garnish

  • Alternative ingredients:
  • Ground cinnamon
  • Orange or mandarin slices
  • Walnuts
Season the ducks, inside and out, generously with the Greek seasoning and Tony Chachere’s seasoning. Stuff the duck cavities with equal amounts of the apples, raisins and pecans. Place the ducks in a large, heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium heat and brown evenly on all sides, adding a small amount of olive oil to help the browning process depending upon the amount of fat on the ducks.

When the ducks are well browned, transfer them to a platter and set aside.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the bell peppers, green onions and celery and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are translucent, 8 to 10 minutes.

Periodically scrape the bottom of the pot lightly with a square-ended wooden spoon to loosen the browned bits on the bottom of the pot to create a dark brown gravy. A little water may be added periodically to help the process.

Return the ducks, breast down, to the pot and add enough water to cover completely. Bring to a gentle boil over medium-low heat and then cover the pot. Check periodically and add more water for the loss caused by the cooking process. Turn the ducks when adding liquid. Cook until the ducks surrender and are fork tender, about 2 hours. Remember the ducks have to surrender! Add the carrots and potatoes and cook until they are fork tender.

Serve over wild rice. Garnish with the green onions.

Alternative suggestions:
Add ground cinnamon to taste when seasoning the ducks. Rather than the apples, raisins and pecans, use orange or mandarin slices and walnuts.

Contributed by Chef Patrick Mould, Lafayette, La.

It’s the crack of dawn, thirty-two degrees, a stiff north wind is blowing and a light mist is falling. You ask why I have a smile of on my face? Duck season is open.

Understand that I’m not an avid hunter. I didn’t grow up going out to the blind. I’m an occasional hunter but all it takes is once to be hooked.

Part of the allure is just being miles away from so-called civilization and the hustle and bustle of city life. No cell phone, no television and if you’re lucky you might get some guys to join in a poker game and enjoy some good sipping whiskey.

One of my all time favorite things to eat is teal in a sauce rouille, what Cajuns call a rusty gravy.

Teals are the best eating ducks around and the recipe is so simple. It is nothing more than a few teals, lightly seasoned and browned in a Dutch oven in a little oil. Add a little chopped onions, maybe some chopped garlic and continue to brown the ducks. Add some water, continue to cook until the water has evaporated and the ducks and onions begin to brown, again basting the ducks throughout the cooking process, add more onions and repeat the process over and over until the ducks are tender.

What you end up with is this incredibly rich, dark gravy. This cooking method allows the true flavor of the ducks to shine, which is the ultimate compliment to any ingredient.

Another one of my favorite ways to enjoy duck is in a gumbo. This recipe has a little twist to it—adding some par-boiled mirlitons (or chayotes as they are sometimes called) into the gumbo. The crunch of the mirlitons is a nice compliment to the tenderness of the duck.

If you don’t have a hunter in the family, don’t worry, I’ve used a domesticated ducks in the recipes. If you are using wild ducks, you’ll need the equivalent of 5 to 6 pounds of duck for the recipe, and you’ll have to cook the ducks longer to tenderize, the length of time will depend upon the toughness of the ducks. You will also have to increase the chicken broth by 2 cups.

Makes 6 to 8 servings
  • 1 domestic duckling (5 to 6 pounds) or wild ducks to equal 5 to 6 pounds, cut into serving pieces
  • 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
  • 4 teaspoons Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons hot sauce
  • 1 teaspoon granulated garlic
  • 1 teaspoon granulated onion
  • 2 quarts chicken broth*
  • 1 cup chopped onions
  • 1/2 cup chopped celery
  • 1/2 cup chopped bell peppers
  • 1/2 cup dark roux
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 1 pound fresh pork sausage
  • 2 large mirlitons, peeled and cut into medium-size cubes and cooked until slightly tender in boiling water
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 cup sliced green onions
  • 8 cups cooked rice

Season the duckling (or ducks) with the Worcestershire sauce, 3 teaspoons of Creole seasoning, 1 teaspoon hot sauce, the granulated garlic and granulated onion. Store in an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 hours.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Place the duck(s) in a baking pan and roast for 45 minutes. Remove the duck(s) from the pan and drain off any fat that has accumulated in the pan.

In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine the chicken broth, half of the onions, celery and bell peppers. Add the roux, the remaining hot sauce, bay leaf, unsliced fresh sausage and roasted duckling (or ducks).

Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the pot and simmer for 30 minutes.

Remove the cooked sausage, cool and cut into 1/2-inch slices. Set aside.

Add the remaining onions, celery, bell peppers, and the garlic. Cover and simmer for an additional 30 minutes.

Add the sausage, mirlitons and salt. Continue to simmer uncovered for 15 minutes. Cover and cook for 15 minutes longer. Stir in the green onions and serve over rice.


My husband Rock is not much of a football fan. I know that sounds almost sacrilegious in Louisiana where fanatic fans plan their weekends around their favorite college and professional teams. However, from time to time, he suggests that we invite friends to watch a game on television. The opportunity affords him some time to hone his culinary talents while everyone else is glued to the wide screen.

No matter who’s playing who, our friends come to the party wearing T-shirts (and other regalia) showing off their allegiance to their respective favorites. There are always several die-hard LSU Tiger fans who have everything from purple and gold shirts, caps, shoes and ties. A lone Tulane fan tops his head with his father’s green beanie. I proudly don my red University of Lafayette sweatshirt. Then, there are those who have the Saints’black and gold/fleur de lis outfits. It’s quite a colorful group.

Rock does know that football fanatics love to enjoy drinks and munchies before the real meal is served either at halftime or at the end of the game(s).

Here’s what he’s come up with. There has to be lots of cold beer, spicy Bloody Marys, and a bourbon punch that sounds like whiskey sours. I suggested soft drinks and a non-alcoholic mulled cider for those who don’t wish to imbibe.

Most of the time, he’ll pull together what he calls “macho nachos” that are nothing more than layers of taco chips, gooey melted cheese, pickled jalapeno slices, dabs of salsa all garnished with sour cream when they come out of the oven.

But he sometimes includes chicken bites, shrimp salsa, and a smoked oyster log. There are also pretzels, peanuts and popcorn.

I don’t know they do it, but they are ready to dive into his jambalaya when he rings the kitchen bell.

Makes about 3 quarts
  • 1 (6-ounce) can frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed and undiluted
  • 1 (6-ounce) can frozen lemonade concentrate, thawed and undiluted
  • 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
  • 2 cups bourbon
  • 1 (2-liter) bottle lemon-lime carbonated beverage, chilled
  • 1 (10-ounce) bottle club soda, chilled

Combine the orange juice, lemonade, lemon juice and bourbon and mix well. Chill for several hours. When ready to serve, add the lemon-lime beverage and club soda and mix. Pour over crushed ice to serve.

Makes about 2 quarts
  • 2 quarts apple cider
  • 10 whole cloves
  • 10 whole allspice
  • 4 (4-inch) cinnamon sticks
  • 1/4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
Combine all of the ingredients in a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for five minutes. Remove and discard the cloves, allspice, and cinnamon sticks. Serve hot.

Makes about 40 appetizers
  • 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened
  • 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried basil
  • 1/8 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 1/8 teaspoon dried thyme
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon cayenne
  • 1 cup finely chopped, cooked chicken
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped celery
  • 1 (2-ounce) jar diced pimiento, drained
  • 1 (8-ounce) cans refrigerated crescent dinner rolls
  • 1 large egg, lightly beaten
Combine the cream cheese, lemon juice, basil, oregano, thyme, salt and cayenne. Mix well. Add the chicken, celery, and pimiento and mix. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Separate the crescent dough into eight rectangles. Press the perforations to seal. Spread about 1/4 cup of the cream cheese-chicken mixture over each dough rectangle, leaving about 1/2-inch margin on one long side and no margin on the other sides.

Roll the dough, jellyroll fashion, starting at the long side with the filling spread to the edge. Pinch the seams to seal. Brush the tops with the egg. Cut each roll into five pieces and place seam-side down on lightly greased baking sheet. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes or until golden brown.

Makes about 5 cups
  • 1 1/2 pounds boiled small shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • 2 ripe medium-size avocados, peeled and cubed
  • 1/4 cup fresh lime juice
  • 3 cups coarsely chopped ripe tomatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds)
  • 1 1/2 cup chopped green onions
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  • 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
  • 1 tablespoon chopped pickled jalapenos
  • Pinch of ground cumin
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon hot sauce

Coarsely chop the shrimp and set aside
Combine the avocados with the lime juice and toss gently to coat. Set aside.
Combine the shrimp, tomatoes, green onions, cilantro, garlic, jalapenos, cumin, salt, black pepper and hot sauce in a large bowl and toss to mix. Add the avocados and mix gently. Chill for at least two hours before serving with tortilla chips.

Makes 1 log to serve about 12 to 14 appetizers
  • 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened
  • 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
  • 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
  • Salt, cayenne and Tabasco pepper sauce to taste
  • 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
  • 1 tin smoked oysters, drained and chopped
  • 2 tablespoons minced parsley
Combine the cream cheese and mayonnaise and blend well. Add the salt, cayenne, and Tabasco. Stir in the garlic and smoked oysters. Blend well. Wrap the mixture in wax paper and chill for at least 30 minutes. Shape the chilled mixture into a log and roll it in the parsley to coat evenly. Serve with party crackers.

Makes 8 to 10 servings
  • 3 pounds pork short ribs
  • 1 pound fresh pork sausage, removed from the casing and crumbled
  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  • 2 cups coarsely chopped yellow onions
  • 1 cup coarsely chopped green bell peppers
  • 1 cup beef broth
  • 2 1/2 cups water
  • 1 1/2 cups long-grain rice
  • Salt and cayenne to taste
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves
In a large, heavy pot, brown the pork ribs and sausage in the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and bell peppers and cook, stirring, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the broth and simmer for 30 minutes.

Add the water, rice, and season with salt and cayenne. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover, and cook until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the parsley. Serve immediately.

I’ve also added a dessert since I know from experience that after the last whistle has blown, those screaming football fans like to have something to satisfy that old sweet tooth.

Makes one cake to serve about 12 pieces
  • 1 cup butter, softened
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
  • 6 large eggs
  • 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 cup cocoa powder
  • 1 (8-ounce) carton sour cream
  • 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Beat the butter at medium speed with an electric mixer for about two minutes, or until it is soft and creamy. Gradually add the sugars, beating at medium speed for five to seven minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating just until the yellow disappears.

Combine the flour, baking soda, and cocoa and add this to the creamed mixture alternately with the sour cream, beginning and ending with the flour mixture. Mix at low speed just until blended after each addition. Stir in the vanilla.

Spoon the batter into a greased and lightly floured 10-inch tube pan. Bake for one hour and 20 minutes, or until the top springs back when touched. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for about 15 minutes. Remove from the pan and cool completely before slicing.


The Fourth of July, possibly the quintessential American celebration and the only big holiday of the summer season, is a grand excuse for a party with family and friends.

My husband really gets into the spirit. He puts out not one or two, but three American flags on various flagpoles around the yard. Small American flags on sticks are jabbed into flowerpots, window boxes, and in the flower bed that borders the driveway. Red, white and blue bunting adorns our pier and party barge. Mounds of red, white and blue napkins and paper plates are always at the ready. He even found twenty-four matching bright blue glass goblets that he thinks are just the thing to set the mood for the holiday.

He also likes to plan the menu to include lots of red items—strawberries, watermelons and lobsters. Blueberries, and drinks he’s christened with names like Blue Parrots and Blue Lagoons represent blue. And white can be anything from homemade vanilla ice cream to angel food cakes.

Burgers are always fun and welcome for any outdoor occasion. All that is necessary is to prep the meat patties, toss them on the grill, and supply condiments and buns for everyone to dress their own.

Since I’m a great burger fan, I have several of my personal favorites that just might inspire you for the Fourth, or for any summertime occasion.

Spicy burgers
Makes 6 servings
  • 2 pounds lean ground beef
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped green bell peppers
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped green onions
  • 3 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 2 teaspoon hot sauce
  • Salt and black pepper to taste
  • 2 tablespoons barbecue sauce
  • 6 hamburger buns, lightly toasted
In a large mixing bowl, combine the beef, bell peppers, green onions, garlic, oregano, hot sauce and barbecue sauce. Season with salt and black pepper. Mix well, but do not overwork. Shape into patties. Grill (or broil in the oven) the meat to five to six minutes on each side, or until all pink disappears. Don’t press down on them with a spatula! You’re draining all the taste out!

Place the burgers on the toasted buns and dress.

Blue cheese burgers
Makes 4 to 6 servings
  • 2 pounds lean ground beef
  • 1/2 pound lean ground pork
  • 1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives
  • Salt and black pepper to taste
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 4 to 6 tablespoons crumbled blue cheese
  • 4 to 6 toasted buns
Combine the beef, pork, chives, salt, pepper, soy sauce and olive oil in a large mixing bowl and mix well. Shape the mixture into patties. Then, make a pocket in the center of each patty and fill each with a tablespoon of the blue cheese. Close the pocket by pinching the meat together. Grill for five to six minutes on each side, or until all pink disappears. Serve on toasted buns.

This final recipe is one of my favorites. I like dousing the burgers, as I eat, with lots of hot sauce!

California burgers
Makes 4 to 6 servings
  • 1 pound lean ground beef
  • 1 pound lean ground lamb
  • 1/2 pound lean veal
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • Salt and black pepper to taste
  • 2 medium-size ripe Haas avocados, peeled, pitted and mashed
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
  • Hot sauce to taste
  • 4 to 6 toasted buns
In a large mixing bowl, combine the ground meats, soy sauce, salt and pepper. Mix well and shape into patties. Grill (or broil) for five to six minutes on each side, or until all pink disappears.

In a small bowl, combine the avocados, lime juice, hot sauce, and season with salt and pepper. Mix well.
Spread the avocado mixture on the buns and place a hamburger patty on top. Dress with grilled onions or tomatoes, or whatever strikes your fancy!
And what could be better than a cool coleslaw to serve with the burgers.

Best coleslaw
Makes 6 to 8 servings
  • 2 cups shredded white cabbage
  • 2 cups shredded red cabbage
  • 1 cup shredded spinach
  • 1 green bell pepper, thinly sliced
  • 1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
  • 1 cup thinly sliced red onions
  • 2 tablespoons chopped pickled jalapenos
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
  • 1 cup mayonnaise
  • 1/4 cup sour cream
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • 3 tablespoons Creole mustard
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 teaspoon sugar
Toss the cabbage, spinach, bell peppers, onions, jalapenos, and parsley in a large salad bowl.
In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, sour cream, lemon juice, mustard, salt, pepper and sugar and mix well.
Add the mixture to the salad bowl and toss to mix thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour.

Red, White and Blue Cheesecake
Makes 10 to 12 servings

  • 28 chocolate wafers, ground fine in a blender or food processor (about 1 1/2 cups crumbs)
  • 1 stick unsalted butter
  • 4 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened
  • 1 1/2 cups sugar
  • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 5 large eggs
  • 1/2 cup sour cream
  • 1 teaspoon freshly grated orange zest
  • 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 1 1/2 cups raspberries or strawberries
  • 1 1/2 cups blueberries
To make the crust, stir together the cookie crumbs and the butter until the mixture is well blended. Pat the mixture onto the bottom and 1/2 inch up the side of a 9 1/2-inch springform pan. Chill for 30 minutes. For the filling, preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In a bowl with an electric mixture beat the cream cheese until it is light and fluffy. Gradually add the sugar, beating until the mixture is well blended. Beat in the flour and the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in the sour cream, the zests, the salt and vanilla until all is well blended.

Pour the filling into the crust and bake the cheesecake in a foil-lined shallow baking pan in the middle of the oven for one hour and 10 minutes. The cheesecake will not be completely set, but will set as it cools. Turn the oven off and let the cheesecake stand in the oven with the oven door propped open about six inches until it is cooled completely. Cover and chill the cheesecake for at least six hours.

Remove from pan. Arrange the raspberries or strawberries on top of the cheesecake in a star shape. Then arrange the blueberries around the star to cover the top of the cheesecake. To serve, cut into thin slices.
Hope you enjoy your 4th of July!


Vive la France! Don’t put away those red, white and blue decorations from the Fourth of July just yet. Just exchange out the American flags for French flags and you’re set to celebrate Bastille Day (July 14) to commemorate the French Revolution. With so many of us of French descent or with a French connection, it’s yet another reason to have another summer celebration.

Break out the best of your French champagne, or offer aperitifs to stimulate the appetite, and serve a festive hors d’ouevre that can be as simple as rillettes de saumon fume, (a smoked salmon spread) or the best store-bought pate you can find. Follow with a very French (but simple) dinner of Steak au Poivre, Pommes Pailles, and Tomatoes Provencale.

Makes 4 appetizer servings
  • 6 ounces smoked salmon
  • 3 tablespoons creme fraiche or sour cream
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened
  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped green onions, white part only
  • 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
  • Pinch of salt
  • Pinch of cayenne
  • 1 tablespoon snipped fresh dill plus dill sprigs for garnish
  • Toast points or croutons
In a food processor puree two thirds of the salmon with the creme fraiche or sour cream, the butter and the zest and transfer the mixture to a bowl. Chop the remaining salmon and stir it into the mixture with the green onions, lemon juice, salt, cayenne and the snipped dill. Using two teaspoons dipped in cold water form spoonfuls of the rillettes into oval mounds, arranging three mounds on each of four small plates. (The rillettes may be made one day in advance and keep covered and chilled in the refrigerator.) Garnish the rillettes with the dill sprigs and serve with toast points or croutons.

Makes 4 servings
  • 3 tablespoons black peppercorns
  • 4 (1/2-pound) beef fillets, each about 3/4 inch thick
  • Salt
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/4 cup minced shallots
  • 1/2 cup Cognac
  • 1 cup beef broth
  • 2/3 cup heavy cream
  • Cayenne
  • Watercress or parsley sprigs for garnish
Coarsely crush the peppercorns with a mortar and pestle or in a peppermill. Press the pepper into both sides of the steaks. Season the steaks with salt to taste. In a large heavy skillet, heat the oil and the butter over moderately high heat until the foam subsides. Add the steaks and cook for two to two and one half minutes on each side, or until they are just springy to the touch, for medium-rare, or longer if you prefer the steaks to be medium. Transfer the steaks to a platter and keep them warm. Pour off almost all of the oil in the skillet. Add the shallots and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until it softened. Add the Cognac and cook until the mixture is reduced to a glaze on the bottom of the pan. Add the broth and boil until the mixture is reduced by half. Add the cream and boil the mixture, stirring occasionally, until it is thickened slightly. Season the sauce with salt and cayenne to taste. Pour the sauce into a warmed sauceboat. Garnish the steaks with the watercress or parsley and serve the sauce separately.

Makes 4 servings
  • 1 1/2 pounds russet (baking) potatoes
  • Vegetable oil for deep frying
  • Salt, cayenne and fresh ground black pepper
Peel the potatoes and drop them into a large bowl of ice water. With a mandoline or similar slicing device, cut the potatoes lengthwise into very thin sticks, dropping the sticks as they are cut into the bowl of water. Toss the potatoes in the water to wash off excess starch, drain, then pat them dry between several layers of paper towels. Heat the oil to about 360 degrees F. and deep fry the potatoes in small batches for about two minutes, or until they are golden. Remove each batch and drain them on paper towels. Season the potatoes with salt, cayenne and black pepper. (The potatoes can be made several hours in advance. Just before serving spread them in a large roasting pan and heat them in a 325 degrees F. oven for five to 10 minutes, or until they are crisp and hot.)

Makes 4 servings
  • 4 medium, ripe tomatoes
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil plus additional for brushing the tomatoes
  • 1/3 cup bread crumbs
  • 1 flat anchovy fillet, rinsed, dried and minced
  • 1 teaspoon minced garlic
  • 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • 1/3 cup minced parsley
  • 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil leaves
  • Salt and black pepper
Cut off the top third from each tomato and discard. Scoop out the seeds with a small spoon. Brush the outside of the tomatoes with some of the olive oil. Put the tomatoes, cut sides up, on a lightly oiled shallow baking pan and season the inside of the tomatoes with salt and pepper. Bake the tomatoes in a preheated 325 degrees F. oven for 20 minutes. Remove and invert them over paper towels and let them drain for about 15 minutes. In a small bowl toss together the bread crumbs, the anchovy, garlic, Parmesan, parsley, basil and salt and pepper to taste. Divide the mixture equally among the tomatoes and stuff into the cavities. Sprinkle the tomatoes with the three tablespoons of olive oil. Return the tomatoes to the shallow baking pan and broil about four inches from the heat for about two to three minutes, or until the topping is crisp and golden brown.


Bring on summer! I’m ready for a sno-ball, cold beer (make mine Abita Amber), a dip in the pool, a boat ride on the bayou, and crabs prepared every which way.

About this time of year as soon as school is out, a cousin of mine and I head out to Vermilion Bay to put out the crab traps, baited with chicken necks, on the pier of our camp. In between checking the traps, we sometimes sink a line in the slate-gray salty water in hopes of catching a redfish or speckled trout, or even a stray flounder. Fresh fish and crabmeat make for a great dinner pairing.

Makes 6 servings
  • 6 fillets of trout or redfish, 6 to 8 ounces each
  • 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 1/4 cup chopped green onions
  • 1 teaspoon minced garlic
  • 1/2 pound fresh white button mushrooms, wiped clean, stemmed and chopped
  • 1 pound small shrimp (peeled and deveined) or 1 pound lump crabmeat (picked over for shells and cartilage)
  • 1 teaspoon dried basil leaves
  • Salt, freshly ground black pepper, and cayenne pepper
  • 1 cup fine dried bread crumbs (more or less as needed)
  • 1/2 pint half-and-half
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Gently pound the fillets a bit to make them lie flat. Sprinkle with lemon juice and set aside.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, and mushrooms and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp or crabmeat and basil, and season with salt, black pepper and cayenne. Add ¾ cup of the chicken broth and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the bread crumbs and stir so that the mixture binds together. Remove from the heat and cool.

Place a tablespoon or so of the mixture on top of the fish fillet and roll up like a jelly roll. (You may have to use a toothpick to hold the roll together.) Place the roulades in a shallow baking pan with the remaining ¼ cup chicken broth and the half-and half. Dot with the remaining butter. Bake until the fish flakes easily with a fork, 20 to 25 minutes.

For a quick sauce, combine 1/4 cup Creole mustard and 1/4 cup mayonnaise and mix well. Drizzle the sauce on the roulades as they come out of the oven.

If we’re lucky enough, we will catch enough crabs to enjoy both a crab boil AND a chilled crabmeat salad plopped on thick slices of ripe tomatoes.


Makes 4 servings
  • 1 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 dashes hot sauce
  • 3 tablespoons finely chopped celery
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped green onions
  • 1 tablespoon drained capers
  • 3 teaspoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves
  • 1/4 cup mayonnaise
  • 2 teaspoons Creole mustard
Combine all of the ingredients in a mixing bowl and mix well. Refrigerate for at least one hour before serving. The salad can be served atop a mound of salad greens, on thick slices of tomatoes, or in an avocado half. It can also be served as an hors d’ouevre, with crackers or toast points.

If you’ve never had soft-shell crabs, then please give yourself a real treat. (You can purchase them on this website.)

This recipe does take a little time to pull together, but it’s time well spent.


Makes 6 servings
  • 6 jumbo soft-shell crabs
  • 1 cup chopped green onions
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 1 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage
  • 1 pound small shrimp, peeled and finely chopped
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons cayenne
  • 1/2 teaspoon white pepper
  • 3 cups stale bread crumbs
  • 1/2 pound mushrooms, finely chopped
  • 3 egg yolks
  • 1 (3-ounce) jar diced pimientos
  • Flour for dredging
  • 2 cups buttermilk
  • 4 eggs, beaten
  • 3 cups cracker meal
  • Peanut oil for deep-frying
Clean the soft-shell crabs by cutting across the face with a pair of kitchen shears. Remove the eye sockets and the lower mouth. Carefully lift up the apron and remove the gills. Gently rinse with cool water and pat dry.

Cook the green onions, garlic, crabmeat, and shrimp in the wine for several minutes over medium heat. Add 1 teaspoon of the salt, 1/2 teaspoon of the cayenne, 1/4 teaspoon white pepper and the bread crumbs. Stir to mix. Add the mushrooms, egg yolks and pimientos. Mix gently. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Chill the stuffing for at least one hour or until firm.

Carefully lift the shoulders on each crab and gently press about one tablespoon of the stuffing into this area. Press the shoulders down to hold the stuffing. Be careful not to break off any of the legs of the crabs. Lay the crabs on a baking sheet and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon of salt and 1/2 teaspoon cayenne.

Combine the flour with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon cayenne and 1/4 teaspoon white pepper in a shallow bowl. In a mixing bowl combine the buttermilk and the eggs. Whisk to blend. Put the cracker meal in another shallow bowl.

Heat the oil to 360 degrees in a deep pot.

Dredge the crabs in the seasoned flour, then dip them in the buttermilk mixture. Then dredge them in the cracker meal, making sure that the legs are well breaded.

Hold each crab by the body, allowing the legs to dip into the hot oil for a few seconds before dropping the whole crab into the hot oil. Fry the crabs until they float to the surface of the oil and are golden brown. Drain on paper towels.

For the jambalaya:
  • 3 tablespoons vegetable shortening
  • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 1½ cups chopped onions
  • 1/2 cup chopped green bell peppers
  • 1 cup chopped celery
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 1 (1-pound) can whole tomatoes
  • 3/4 cup tomato sauce
  • 2 cups uncooked short-grain white rice
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1¼ teaspoons cayenne pepper
  • 2½ cups water
  • 1 pound medium-size shrimp, peeled and deveined
Heat the shortening in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and stir over medium heat to make a golden brown roux. Add the onions, bell pepper, celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables are soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the whole tomatoes and the tomato sauce and cook until an oil film rises to the surface.

Stir in the rice, salt, cayenne, water and shrimp. Cover and cook over a low heat until the rice is tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Add more water if the mixture becomes dry. Serve the crabs, legs up, over a bed of jambalaya. Ladle a tablespoon of CREOLLAISE SAUCE over the crabs. Garnish with a wedge of lemon and fried parsley.

  • 2 cups béarnaise sauce
  • 2 tablespoons Creole mustard
Combine the sauce and mustard and keep warm.

Ahhh yes, bring on summertime!