SEAFOOD GUMBO Makes 6 to 8 servings

• 3/4 cup vegetable oil
• 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 cups chopped onions
• 1 cup chopped bell peppers
• 1 cup chopped celery
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 1 teaspoon cayenne
• 5 bay leaves
• 8 cups water or shrimp stock
• 6 gumbo crabs, broken in half
• 1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 1 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage
• 2 dozen oysters, shucked with their liquor
• 1/4 cup chopped green onions
• 1/4 cup chopped parsley

Combine the oil and flour in a large cast-iron pot over medium heat. Stirring slowly and constantly for 20 to 25 minutes, make a dark brown roux, the color of chocolate. Add the onions, bell peppers, celery, salt, cayenne and bay leaves. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, or until very soft. Add the water or shrimp stock and stir to blend. Add the crabs and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 1 1/2 hours. Add the shrimp and crabmeat and cook for 15 minutes. Add the oysters, green onions and parsley and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the edges of the oysters curl. Remove from heat. Remove the bay leaves. Serve with file powder passed at the table.