Right now, my cup runneth over with local citrus. A friend brought me lemons the size of oranges and oranges the size of grapefruits. I had to use them and came up with this citrus-flavored cake.

Orange and lemon cake

Makes 12 servings

For the cake:

• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 2 sticks butter, at room temperature
• 1 cup sugar
• 4 egg yolks
• 4 egg whites
• 1 cup sour cream
• 1 tablespoon minced orange peel
• 1 tablespoon minced lemon peel
• Pinch of cream of tartar

To make the syrup:

• ¾ cup sugar
• ¼ cup orange-flavored liqueur
• ¼ cup fresh orange juice
• 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• Pinch of salt
• 6 thin lemon slices
• 5 thin orange slices
• 1 cup whipping cream, whipped

To make the cake, preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Butter and flour a 9-inch angel food cake pan. Sift together the flour, baking powder and baking soda. Using an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar. Add the yolks, sour cream, and orange and lemon peels. Beat until slowly dissolving ribbons forms when beaters are lifted.

Stir in the dry ingredients.

Using clean beaters, beat the egg whites with cream of tartar until stiff but not dry. Gently fold half of the whites into the batter to lighten the mixture, then fold in the remaining whites. Pour into the prepared pan. Bake until tester inserted in the center comes out clean, about one hour. Remove from the oven and let cool in the pan for 15 minutes. Run a knife around the edges of the cake to loosen and invert onto a platter.

To make the syrup, cook the sugar, orange liqueur, orange and lemon juice, and the salt in a heavy saucepan over low heat until the sugar dissolves, swirling the pan. Increase the heat and boil until the mixture is thick and syrupy.

Using a toothpick, pierce the top of the cake all over. Pour the syrup over the cake. Garnish with the lemon and orange slices. Serve with whipped cream.

If store-bought desserts don’t quite measure up to your standards, by all means make one yourself. This angel food cake is light and airy, and it can be topped with assorted berries such as strawberries, blueberries, or blackberries. Macerate (that’s the fancy cooking term for mashing and crushing) them in a bowl, sprinkle with a little sugar and perhaps a splash or two of brandy or rum, chill for an hour or so in the refrigerator, then spoon the mixture on slices of cake. Top with whipped cream if you wish. BEST EVERY ANGEL FOOD CAKE Makes a one 10-inch cake

• 1 1/4 cups sifted cake flour
• 1 3/4 cups sugar
• 1 3/4 cup egg whites (from about 12 extra-large eggs)
• 1 teaspoon cream of tartar
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 3/4 teaspoon almond extract
• 3/4 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• 3 cups assorted berries, cleaned, hulled, and crushed
• Sugar
• 1 cup heavy cream, whipped (optional)

Heat the oven to 300 degrees. Sift the flour onto a piece of waxed paper and set aside. Sift the sugar into a small mixing bowl and set aside. Put the egg whites in a large mixing bowl and sift the cream of tartar over the whites. Add the salt and beat the egg whites to very soft peaks. When bowl is tilted, the whites should just flow and not run or slide out of the bowl. Sprinkle two tablespoons of the sugar over the surface of the whites and fold in very gently. Repeat until all the sugar is thoroughly folded in. Be gentle. Sift two tablespoons of the flour over the whites and fold in very gently. Repeat until all the flour is incorporated. Sprinkle in the vanilla, almond extract and the lemon juice over the batter and fold in gently. Pour the batter into an ungreased 10-inch tube pan with a removable bottom and smooth the top with a rubber spatula. Rap the bottom of the pan sharply against the counter once or twice to remove any air bubbles. Bake until pale brown and springy to the touch, about one hour and 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, turn the pan upside down and cool in pan for about one hour. If the pan has not feet, invert it over the neck of a bottle. Turn the cake right side up and loosen around the edges and around the central tube with a thin knife. Remove the cake gently from the pan. Serve with the berries and whipped cream.