Hearty Soups

  • September 09, 2020
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When cooler weather arrives in south Louisiana, I can’t think of anything more inviting on a cold winter night than a hearty soup, gumbo or stew. When the wind is blowing out of the north and the dampness creeps into my bones, I instinctively pull out either Papa’s old soup pot or his favorite big black iron pot, and sometimes both. When the mood strikes and time is on my side, I may well have vegetable soup, some type of bean soup and my personal favorite, chicken and sausage gumbo, simmering for the better part of an afternoon. When it’s a stew I hunger for, my choice is chicken fricassee---thick, brown and full of flavor. To go along with my soups, gumbos and stews, I usually opt for crusty, hot French bread, but then again, I do love skillet corn bread and saltine crackers, all spread liberally with butter, not margarine, real butter. To complete my repast, I need nothing more than perhaps a mixed green salad tossed with a tart vinaigrette and a simple dessert like baked apples, poached pears or butter cookies. Come on, Old Man Winter, I’m ready for you.

OLD FASHIONED VEGETABLE SOUP

  • Makes about 6 quarts
  • 2 pounds brisket, trimmed and cut into 2-inch cubes
  • Salt, cayenne, black pepper to taste
  • 1 teaspoon dried basil leaves
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 3 quarts beef broth
  • 1 cup chopped onions
  • 2 to 3 carrots, chopped
  • 2 ribs celery, chopped
  • 2 cups chopped cabbage
  • 1 cup cut green beans
  • 1 medium turnip, chopped
  • 3 cups canned whole tomatoes, crushed with their liquid
  • 6 ounces curly vermicelli (optional)

Put the brisket in a large soup pot with salt, cayenne, black pepper, basil, bay leaves and beef broth. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, for about one hour, or until the brisket becomes tender. Add the onions, carrots, celery, cabbage, beans, turnips and tomatoes. Simmer for about one hour. Add the vermicelli and cook for about 10 minutes. Adjust the seasonings and skim off any fat that has risen to the surface.   Papa liked to eat his bean soup with a couple of spoonfuls of rice, a fistful of finely chopped green onions and a generous dousing of hot sauce.

WHITE BEAN SOUP

  • Makes about 8 servings
  • 1 pound Great Northern beans, rinsed, picked over, soaked overnight and drained
  • 1/2 pound salt pork or ham pieces (or a ham bone)
  • 1 cup chopped onions
  • 1 cup chopped bell peppers
  • 2 ribs celery, chopped
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 (16-ounce) can whole tomatoes, crushed with their liquid
  • 4 quarts chicken broth or water
  • Salt, cayenne and black pepper to taste

Combine all of the ingredients in a large soup pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the beans are tender, about 1 1/2 hours. If you like a creamy soup, mash some of the beans against the side of the pot with a wooden spoon during the last half hour of cooking time.   I’m going to assume that most of you have your own version for chicken fricassee and here is mine. I’ve always believed that a roasting chicken, not a fryer, is the secret to a rich flavor. And instead of a green salad, I usually opt for a creamy, potato salad to go along with it.

CHICKEN FRICASSEE

  • Makes about 8 servings
  • 1 roasting chicken, about 4 1/2 pounds, cut into serving pieces
  • Salt and cayenne to taste
  • 2/3 cup vegetable oil
  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  • 2 cups chopped onions
  • 1 cup chopped bell peppers
  • 4 to 6 cups chicken broth (amount depends on desired thickness)
  • 2 tablespoons minced parsley

Season the chicken generously with salt and cayenne. Set aside. Make a roux by combining the oil and the flour in a large cast-iron pot over medium heat and stirring constantly until the roux is a dark brown. Add the onions and bell peppers and cook for about five to eight minutes, or until the vegetables are soft. Add the chicken pieces. Stir to mix well with the roux mixture. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring often. Add the broth and stir to blend. Add the bay leaves. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the chicken is tender, about 2 hours. Just before serving, remove the bay leaves and add the parsley. Serve over steamed rice.   Cooler weather also means our local oysters will be in season.

OYSTER AND ARTICHOKE SOUP

  • Makes 6 servings
  • 1 stick butter
  • ¾ cup chopped onions
  • ½ cup chopped green onions
  • ¾ cup chopped celery
  • 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 3 cups warm chicken broth
  • 2 teaspoons Cajun seasoning mix
  • 1 teaspoon hot sauce
  • ½ teaspoon dried thyme leaves
  • ¼ teaspoon paprika
  • 1 cup heavy cream (optional)
  • 1 pint shucked Louisiana oysters with their liquor (if possible, you want to have about ½ cup liquor)
  • 1 (14-ounce) can quartered artichoke hearts, drained
  • 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat in a saucepan. Add the onions and celery and cook, stirring, until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the remaining 6 tablespoons butter and allow to melt while stirring. Add the flour and whisk to blend. Slowly add the warm chicken broth, whisking to blend. The mixture will thicken. Add the Cajun seasoning, hot sauce, thyme and paprika. Simmer for 10 minutes. Then add the oysters and their liquor, the artichoke hearts, and parsley. Cook until the oysters curl, about 5 minutes. Serve hot. *You can sprinkle a bit of freshly grated Parmesan cheese when you ladle the soup into bowls if you like.

winter soups , vegetable soup recipe , soup recipes , cajun soup recipes

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